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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Removing a Rem. Barrel
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<blockquote data-quote="shortgrass" data-source="post: 2836666" data-attributes="member: 24284"><p>The only barrels I have ever needed to cut a "relief groove" in, in the past 30yrs, are Howa 1500/Weatherby Vanguard and P14/ M1917s. I have a barrel vise that uses bushings (steel or aluminum), has four 1/2" bolts that puts the 'squeeze' on , and an action wrench that uses an adaptor to grasp the receiver at its strongest points. The vise is mounted on a sturdy bench and the action wrench is 32"L,,,,,, never needed a 'cheater' to get it done. The proper tools for the task make the difference. Tools that were on the "required to make" while in GS school. I tried a Brownells on the 1st 788 I re-barreled and all that happened was snapping-off the screw. Come to think of it, I cut a groove on 788s, too. I've not barreled many 788s, but I've barreled a very large 'pile' of 700s. They are not difficult to remove the factory installed barrel from. Added: the so called 'thread locker' found on the threads of 700s is not to 'lock' the threads, but is to keep the bluing solution from penetrating into the threaded connection, where it would be difficult to flush out and would rust, as 'bluing' is corrosive, a "controlled rust process".</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shortgrass, post: 2836666, member: 24284"] The only barrels I have ever needed to cut a "relief groove" in, in the past 30yrs, are Howa 1500/Weatherby Vanguard and P14/ M1917s. I have a barrel vise that uses bushings (steel or aluminum), has four 1/2" bolts that puts the 'squeeze' on , and an action wrench that uses an adaptor to grasp the receiver at its strongest points. The vise is mounted on a sturdy bench and the action wrench is 32"L,,,,,, never needed a 'cheater' to get it done. The proper tools for the task make the difference. Tools that were on the "required to make" while in GS school. I tried a Brownells on the 1st 788 I re-barreled and all that happened was snapping-off the screw. Come to think of it, I cut a groove on 788s, too. I've not barreled many 788s, but I've barreled a very large 'pile' of 700s. They are not difficult to remove the factory installed barrel from. Added: the so called 'thread locker' found on the threads of 700s is not to 'lock' the threads, but is to keep the bluing solution from penetrating into the threaded connection, where it would be difficult to flush out and would rust, as 'bluing' is corrosive, a "controlled rust process". [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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Removing a Rem. Barrel
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