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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
Remington 700 5R -- Barrel Contacts End of Stock
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<blockquote data-quote="MudRunner2005" data-source="post: 1673827" data-attributes="member: 12995"><p>Take some painter's tape (blue stuff that leaves no residue), tape up the barrel from the lug to the crown. Put the action back in the stock leaving a couple turns on the action screws. Insert a single cut strip of 600 grit sandpaper (about 8"-12" long, 3" width), between the stock and barrel, with the 2 sides coming out of each side of the barrel channel in the stock. Not that I have to mention this common-sense part, but be sure the sandpaper's rough-side is towards the stock, and NOT towards the barrel. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite2" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=";)" /></p><p></p><p>Tighten the action screws until you get some slight contact with the sandpaper as it's being pushed into the stock's barrel channel, being pushed on by the barrel. Then hold the sandpaper straight up and down on each side of the barrel while the center of it is under the barrel. Run it up and down fast, while also running the sandpaper up and down the full-length of the barrel channel to ensure that you get equal material removal from the stock, and you get a good even channel. Then slightly tighten the screws some more and repeat. Keep doing this until you've gotten the action screws torqued down to 65 inch-pounds, and you're sandpaper will run the full barrel channel freely from lug to the open end with no resistance, and no longer removing material.</p><p></p><p>Then your barrel is free-floated.</p><p></p><p>It sounds like a lot of work, but it can be done rather quickly and inexpensively...Especially the more you do it, the faster and better you'll get at it. Pro's use pro stock making tools and rasps, but this is sort of the redneck version of that, and it works. I've done it quite a few times, with never a bad result. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite6" alt=":cool:" title="Cool :cool:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":cool:" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MudRunner2005, post: 1673827, member: 12995"] Take some painter's tape (blue stuff that leaves no residue), tape up the barrel from the lug to the crown. Put the action back in the stock leaving a couple turns on the action screws. Insert a single cut strip of 600 grit sandpaper (about 8"-12" long, 3" width), between the stock and barrel, with the 2 sides coming out of each side of the barrel channel in the stock. Not that I have to mention this common-sense part, but be sure the sandpaper's rough-side is towards the stock, and NOT towards the barrel. ;) Tighten the action screws until you get some slight contact with the sandpaper as it's being pushed into the stock's barrel channel, being pushed on by the barrel. Then hold the sandpaper straight up and down on each side of the barrel while the center of it is under the barrel. Run it up and down fast, while also running the sandpaper up and down the full-length of the barrel channel to ensure that you get equal material removal from the stock, and you get a good even channel. Then slightly tighten the screws some more and repeat. Keep doing this until you've gotten the action screws torqued down to 65 inch-pounds, and you're sandpaper will run the full barrel channel freely from lug to the open end with no resistance, and no longer removing material. Then your barrel is free-floated. It sounds like a lot of work, but it can be done rather quickly and inexpensively...Especially the more you do it, the faster and better you'll get at it. Pro's use pro stock making tools and rasps, but this is sort of the redneck version of that, and it works. I've done it quite a few times, with never a bad result. :cool: [/QUOTE]
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Remington 700 5R -- Barrel Contacts End of Stock
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