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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Rem 700 action issue
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 786699" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>looks like Remington is using a very short broach bar length (cheaper to buy), and then it's not been ground right or else resharpened right. For cutting race ways, I'd at least want 60" bar if not longer. You can actually get a very nice finish with a broch bar if the machine is in good shape, and of course the broach bar is kept up. The EDM or even a slotter is the way to go, but the process are very slow and becomes expensive.</p><p> </p><p>Looking at the photo, I'd say it's a combo of the bar and the gibs on the slide being a little loose and maybe also some heavilly contaminated coolant. I'd have started with a complete pump out of the coolant and new filters to see if it helped much. From there it would be a new or resharpened bar. Accurate broaching is almost a black art, and engineers that are good at it are snatched up by the big ticket folks that will pay dearly for their services. I never was all that great at doing broach problems, but could get by. The grinds on the bar are closely guarded, and it often takes an act of congress to even get to see the blue prints. Newer broaches actually use Turcite on the slides and gibs that run at about .001" crush fit (they don't do well with Tyco roller bearings). The bar holder and reciever are very critical in alignment and how tight they are, and a chip in the wrong place can drive you nuts. What these guys are cutting would be easy compaired to accurate female splines</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 786699, member: 25383"] looks like Remington is using a very short broach bar length (cheaper to buy), and then it's not been ground right or else resharpened right. For cutting race ways, I'd at least want 60" bar if not longer. You can actually get a very nice finish with a broch bar if the machine is in good shape, and of course the broach bar is kept up. The EDM or even a slotter is the way to go, but the process are very slow and becomes expensive. Looking at the photo, I'd say it's a combo of the bar and the gibs on the slide being a little loose and maybe also some heavilly contaminated coolant. I'd have started with a complete pump out of the coolant and new filters to see if it helped much. From there it would be a new or resharpened bar. Accurate broaching is almost a black art, and engineers that are good at it are snatched up by the big ticket folks that will pay dearly for their services. I never was all that great at doing broach problems, but could get by. The grinds on the bar are closely guarded, and it often takes an act of congress to even get to see the blue prints. Newer broaches actually use Turcite on the slides and gibs that run at about .001" crush fit (they don't do well with Tyco roller bearings). The bar holder and reciever are very critical in alignment and how tight they are, and a chip in the wrong place can drive you nuts. What these guys are cutting would be easy compaired to accurate female splines gary [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Rem 700 action issue
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