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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Reloading steps questions
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<blockquote data-quote="Timber338" data-source="post: 1182211" data-attributes="member: 33822"><p>This is the exact thought process that drove me to never shoot Winchester brass again. Any of the Winchester WSM brass I have ever owned had awful neck wall thickness consistency. The time I spend turning necks, sorting cases, etc, and I just would rather buy better brass up front. I understand if you cannot find good brass, 7mm WSM is a good example of this. And also partly why I sold my 7mm WSM years ago.</p><p></p><p>To the OP, you seem to be right on track to make great reloads, the only thing that sticks out to me is you are working your case necks an awful lot. Your necks are going to become work hardened very quickly and if you want to get several firings out of your case, each consecutive reload is going to grip the bullet harder and harder and you will likely get larger variations in muzzle velocity compared to your first 1 or 2 shots out of the brass. Not to mention very short case life.</p><p></p><p>You might consider annealing your case necks every other shot. From an accuracy perspective you might not notice any difference out to 200 yards, but if you plan on shooting longer distances you will notice vertical stringing from large variations in muzzle velocity which often times is caused by inconsistent neck tension. Definitely add some kind of lubricant to the necks before you seat the bullet like others have mentioned. I use Redding Imperial Sizing Wax applied sparingly to the inside of the neck with a qtip. I also do not tumble my brass and like to leave the gunpowder residue as a first layer before the wax to help prevent cold welding of the bullet to the brass.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Timber338, post: 1182211, member: 33822"] This is the exact thought process that drove me to never shoot Winchester brass again. Any of the Winchester WSM brass I have ever owned had awful neck wall thickness consistency. The time I spend turning necks, sorting cases, etc, and I just would rather buy better brass up front. I understand if you cannot find good brass, 7mm WSM is a good example of this. And also partly why I sold my 7mm WSM years ago. To the OP, you seem to be right on track to make great reloads, the only thing that sticks out to me is you are working your case necks an awful lot. Your necks are going to become work hardened very quickly and if you want to get several firings out of your case, each consecutive reload is going to grip the bullet harder and harder and you will likely get larger variations in muzzle velocity compared to your first 1 or 2 shots out of the brass. Not to mention very short case life. You might consider annealing your case necks every other shot. From an accuracy perspective you might not notice any difference out to 200 yards, but if you plan on shooting longer distances you will notice vertical stringing from large variations in muzzle velocity which often times is caused by inconsistent neck tension. Definitely add some kind of lubricant to the necks before you seat the bullet like others have mentioned. I use Redding Imperial Sizing Wax applied sparingly to the inside of the neck with a qtip. I also do not tumble my brass and like to leave the gunpowder residue as a first layer before the wax to help prevent cold welding of the bullet to the brass. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Reloading steps questions
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