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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Reloading for accuracy (hunting only)
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<blockquote data-quote="pods8" data-source="post: 995479" data-attributes="member: 83233"><p>The easy/cheap things I certainly control. </p><p>Powder charge: no reason to be sloppy here, if loading alot I use a powder thrower to toss the majority of the powder (if just a couple I spoon it out) but then trickle the final charge in with it measured on a balance scale. </p><p></p><p>Bullet: For hunting I buy decent bullets and get a few boxes so I'll have the same lot number for a while to use. For the ranges I shoot I don't take the time to weight sort.</p><p></p><p>Dies: I'm just running RCBS and Hornady stuff currently.</p><p></p><p>Comparator: I use dowel rod with a bushing I can screw down on it to measure COAL on my gun for a given bullet and I measure a couple. It certainly isn't as good as measuring the ogive directly but works for now for me (something to upgrade later).</p><p></p><p>Cases: I sort by headstamp and also verify the weight is in the same ballpark (I have some old FC brass that is 20-30gr different than the new stuff so I segregate those two). Initially I ream the flash holes but that only needs to be done once for a group of brass. I full length resize since this is hunting and I want clean feeds (and I can loan ammo out too depending on what seating depth I used). I do have a tumbler now, mainly for cleaning easily. I just use the basic lee trimmer each time if there is material that needs to be removed it does it. I brush the primer pocket just to make sure its clean.</p><p></p><p>Using the above WITH PROPER LOAD DEVELOPEMENT, I just shot dime groups this weekend from 2 different guns at 100yds with some Barnes (LRX & TTSX), I'll go ahead a call the great for practical hunting accuracy until I step into the 500+yd game.</p><p> </p><p></p><p></p><p>I run a .5gr single shot ladder just looking for a max charge. Then I back off of that and load a .2gr ladder for '06 cases and a .1gr ladder for '08cases across 10-15 single loads. I then shoot these down range at the same type of target, usually 3 per target (I can log each hit individually through the scope usually with 3 or less). I record velocity along the way too. In the end I look for a band of charges that had good velocity signs and point of impact similarity (you can look between aim points if that group was split between two). With it I have a bunch of "like charge" 3 shot data to look at. From there I'll grab some of the charges that looked like a sweet spot and load up 3-5shot groups depending on how strong I feel the load is (why shoot 5 on a whim group, I can always load more of them later to verify if it turns out better than expected). That usually get a load a bulk of the way there. Then its messing around with seating depth and shooting it enough to verify its consistent. </p><p></p><p>Some bullets never really settle in with the powder or two I try (IE have) and lately bullets are easier to get than powder so I've walked from a given bullet versus looking for a different powder.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="pods8, post: 995479, member: 83233"] The easy/cheap things I certainly control. Powder charge: no reason to be sloppy here, if loading alot I use a powder thrower to toss the majority of the powder (if just a couple I spoon it out) but then trickle the final charge in with it measured on a balance scale. Bullet: For hunting I buy decent bullets and get a few boxes so I'll have the same lot number for a while to use. For the ranges I shoot I don't take the time to weight sort. Dies: I'm just running RCBS and Hornady stuff currently. Comparator: I use dowel rod with a bushing I can screw down on it to measure COAL on my gun for a given bullet and I measure a couple. It certainly isn't as good as measuring the ogive directly but works for now for me (something to upgrade later). Cases: I sort by headstamp and also verify the weight is in the same ballpark (I have some old FC brass that is 20-30gr different than the new stuff so I segregate those two). Initially I ream the flash holes but that only needs to be done once for a group of brass. I full length resize since this is hunting and I want clean feeds (and I can loan ammo out too depending on what seating depth I used). I do have a tumbler now, mainly for cleaning easily. I just use the basic lee trimmer each time if there is material that needs to be removed it does it. I brush the primer pocket just to make sure its clean. Using the above WITH PROPER LOAD DEVELOPEMENT, I just shot dime groups this weekend from 2 different guns at 100yds with some Barnes (LRX & TTSX), I'll go ahead a call the great for practical hunting accuracy until I step into the 500+yd game. I run a .5gr single shot ladder just looking for a max charge. Then I back off of that and load a .2gr ladder for '06 cases and a .1gr ladder for '08cases across 10-15 single loads. I then shoot these down range at the same type of target, usually 3 per target (I can log each hit individually through the scope usually with 3 or less). I record velocity along the way too. In the end I look for a band of charges that had good velocity signs and point of impact similarity (you can look between aim points if that group was split between two). With it I have a bunch of "like charge" 3 shot data to look at. From there I'll grab some of the charges that looked like a sweet spot and load up 3-5shot groups depending on how strong I feel the load is (why shoot 5 on a whim group, I can always load more of them later to verify if it turns out better than expected). That usually get a load a bulk of the way there. Then its messing around with seating depth and shooting it enough to verify its consistent. Some bullets never really settle in with the powder or two I try (IE have) and lately bullets are easier to get than powder so I've walked from a given bullet versus looking for a different powder. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Reloading for accuracy (hunting only)
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