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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Relearning Reloading - Need Advice
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<blockquote data-quote="Derek M." data-source="post: 234882" data-attributes="member: 2693"><p>Just a thought, but since it is so readily available, I suggest you buy about 200 pieces of 30.06 Lapua brass. First choice in primers for me is always Federal Gold Medal match...and in the case of the 30.06, I'd go with the 210Ms. Excellent powders for your caliber the following but there are more:</p><p></p><p>IMR4350, H4350, Re19, Re22, IMR4064, Varget, H4895, IMR4895, H414, AA2520. I only use the Re22 with 180 or larger bullets. </p><p></p><p>I'd suggest a 168 gr bullet for good all around use. Check here for a thread on the new Nosler Btip in this wt. However, the Berger VLD in 185 has turned out to be an excellent and accurate bullet. Works on black bears too.</p><p></p><p>Use a good trimmer, scale, and press. I also advise a concentricity gauge. </p><p></p><p>As far as dies go, I use only Redding and Forster. I do not like to use an expanding button if I don't have to and IMO, the best button for sizing is the football shaped one by Hornady. What I did with all of my sizing dies is take the preferred brand of brass and seat a bullet. Measure the OD of that loaded round in the center of the neck. Subtract .0025 from that and send the die back to the manufacturer and have them hone it to that size. I personally prefer to have it size the brass to where it squeezes the neck only about .001 after any springback. I noticed that with all my brass, and sizing them with the expander, it opened up that much anyway. </p><p></p><p>This does 2 things. One, it helps so that you do not overwork your brass. Two: it also allows for not necessarily needing your expander when sizing, so the chances of runout are greatly reduced. For what it is worth, Forster charges $10 for this and Redding charges $20. My Redding 270 Win sizer was reducing the neck by about .010 or more which is ridiculous.</p><p></p><p>Anneal your brass after about 4-6 firings.</p><p></p><p>I only use the micrometer seating dies in either brand. </p><p></p><p>READ the books mentioned in this thread and BUY a couple of good DVDs. You'll be glad you did.</p><p></p><p>Never start with a maximum load that is published in a book and think it will automatically be safe in your rifle. </p><p></p><p>The seating depth of the bullet can be of great importance to repeatable accuracy. You must find the sweet spot.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Derek M., post: 234882, member: 2693"] Just a thought, but since it is so readily available, I suggest you buy about 200 pieces of 30.06 Lapua brass. First choice in primers for me is always Federal Gold Medal match...and in the case of the 30.06, I'd go with the 210Ms. Excellent powders for your caliber the following but there are more: IMR4350, H4350, Re19, Re22, IMR4064, Varget, H4895, IMR4895, H414, AA2520. I only use the Re22 with 180 or larger bullets. I'd suggest a 168 gr bullet for good all around use. Check here for a thread on the new Nosler Btip in this wt. However, the Berger VLD in 185 has turned out to be an excellent and accurate bullet. Works on black bears too. Use a good trimmer, scale, and press. I also advise a concentricity gauge. As far as dies go, I use only Redding and Forster. I do not like to use an expanding button if I don't have to and IMO, the best button for sizing is the football shaped one by Hornady. What I did with all of my sizing dies is take the preferred brand of brass and seat a bullet. Measure the OD of that loaded round in the center of the neck. Subtract .0025 from that and send the die back to the manufacturer and have them hone it to that size. I personally prefer to have it size the brass to where it squeezes the neck only about .001 after any springback. I noticed that with all my brass, and sizing them with the expander, it opened up that much anyway. This does 2 things. One, it helps so that you do not overwork your brass. Two: it also allows for not necessarily needing your expander when sizing, so the chances of runout are greatly reduced. For what it is worth, Forster charges $10 for this and Redding charges $20. My Redding 270 Win sizer was reducing the neck by about .010 or more which is ridiculous. Anneal your brass after about 4-6 firings. I only use the micrometer seating dies in either brand. READ the books mentioned in this thread and BUY a couple of good DVDs. You'll be glad you did. Never start with a maximum load that is published in a book and think it will automatically be safe in your rifle. The seating depth of the bullet can be of great importance to repeatable accuracy. You must find the sweet spot. [/QUOTE]
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Relearning Reloading - Need Advice
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