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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Redding micrometer seater
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 610013" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>Hold On!</p><p> </p><p>we are compairing apples to oranges here. </p><p> </p><p>* with the gauge setup you are setting up your own personal gauge line deminsion that has little if anything todo with some written in a book or posted on the internet. Now you can take this a step further (assuming you have access to a Shadowgraph), and figure out the perfect datum line O.D. Most all of us can't do that, and in the end means little. The best way to do this is to either figure out what Forster or Redding is using on their seater stem, or simply come up with you own set of number that will put you in the general area you are seaking. I do it a slightly different way, in that I often use the actual bore size of a certain barrel. Still other times I just make up a bushing that contacts the bullets where I want it to. I actually have more bushings that I've custom machined than came with the kit itself. (probably forty)</p><p> </p><p>That measurement is your own gauge line to go by, and dosn't interchange with a gun setting right beside it. I keep a log book that seperates each bullet I use and each barrel / bolt combo. If you have the Hornaday/Stoneypoint tool, then you get get very close to the max overall length without getting into a jam condition. Then you setup a max deminsion off that length ( with the bushing you selected). Now I always recommend that a person do this setup several times to be sure he is correct. Then simply throw out the max numbers at each end and then average them out. That'll put you very close to what you are seeking. Then you will say "hey I want .015" bullet jump", and set the die for that number. I recommend you establish a dummy round that just touches the rifeling, and drill out the primer pocket you you don't loose it.</p><p> </p><p>* if you decide to machine your own bushings, always try to keep all faces parallel and round. I prefer to bore mine rather than ream them. Secondly take a Scotchbrite pad and lightly wipe the shoulder that will contact the bullet. I will usually have about .010" radius there when done. I also use the same method for sizing cases, but the datum O.D. is figured as half the distance from the neck O.D. to the shoulder O.D.</p><p> </p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 610013, member: 25383"] Hold On! we are compairing apples to oranges here. * with the gauge setup you are setting up your own personal gauge line deminsion that has little if anything todo with some written in a book or posted on the internet. Now you can take this a step further (assuming you have access to a Shadowgraph), and figure out the perfect datum line O.D. Most all of us can't do that, and in the end means little. The best way to do this is to either figure out what Forster or Redding is using on their seater stem, or simply come up with you own set of number that will put you in the general area you are seaking. I do it a slightly different way, in that I often use the actual bore size of a certain barrel. Still other times I just make up a bushing that contacts the bullets where I want it to. I actually have more bushings that I've custom machined than came with the kit itself. (probably forty) That measurement is your own gauge line to go by, and dosn't interchange with a gun setting right beside it. I keep a log book that seperates each bullet I use and each barrel / bolt combo. If you have the Hornaday/Stoneypoint tool, then you get get very close to the max overall length without getting into a jam condition. Then you setup a max deminsion off that length ( with the bushing you selected). Now I always recommend that a person do this setup several times to be sure he is correct. Then simply throw out the max numbers at each end and then average them out. That'll put you very close to what you are seeking. Then you will say "hey I want .015" bullet jump", and set the die for that number. I recommend you establish a dummy round that just touches the rifeling, and drill out the primer pocket you you don't loose it. * if you decide to machine your own bushings, always try to keep all faces parallel and round. I prefer to bore mine rather than ream them. Secondly take a Scotchbrite pad and lightly wipe the shoulder that will contact the bullet. I will usually have about .010" radius there when done. I also use the same method for sizing cases, but the datum O.D. is figured as half the distance from the neck O.D. to the shoulder O.D. gary [/QUOTE]
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Redding micrometer seater
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