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Hunting
The Basics, Starting Out
Recoil
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<blockquote data-quote="RDM416" data-source="post: 512128" data-attributes="member: 3745"><p>McDewbie,</p><p></p><p>There are various ways to deal with recoil. The various recoil tables will simply tell you "how much" recoil a given load/rifle combination will have. Useful information, but it only goes so far. </p><p></p><p>First of all, it is important to manage recoil well in a LR hunting rig for a variety of reasons. If your rifle kicks the snot out of you, you will not shoot it much, you will develop a "flinch" and you simply will not shoot it well. Although not necessary, it is also good to be able to get back on the scope quickly enough to see your bullet impact. </p><p></p><p>How to manage recoil? Weight. Muzzle brake. You have already mentioned adding weight to your rifle. This can be done in variety of ways. Drilling holes in the butt and filling with lead (use #8 or #9 shotgun pellets mixed with epoxy, no lose stuff in the stock). Some will also cut out underneath the barrel and glue in lead shot to keep the balance better if also adding to the butt. The mercury recoil recoil reducers work as well, be sure to follow the directions. Like the lead, those need to be installed tightly so there is no movement. Changing out to a heavier stock is another method of adding weight. DO NOT SOLDER OR ADD WEIGHT TO YOUR BARREL!!!!! </p><p></p><p>A muzzle brake is the other commonly used method that can be added to any rifle. Brakes are very effective although some types are more effective than others. There is quite a lot of information on this site on brakes, so do a search and some reading. If you are going to be shooting a hard kicking caliber a brake is necessary in my opinion. Just remember the hearing protection!!!!!! </p><p></p><p>Many shooters on this site use a combination of the two. A heavy rifle with a brake can tame down even the hardest kicking calibers. One of the rifles I hunt with a lot is a 338 Khan (338-378 wby wildcat) and is a real beast shooting 300 grain bullets at over 3000fps. It has a very efficient brake and weights in at 17 lbs. My Daughter was shooting this rifle when she was 10. I have had several kids from 10 to 13 years old kill deer with this rifle at ranges of 300 yards and more. Recoil is very mild, my 308 AR has more "felt" recoil. </p><p></p><p>One other side advantage to adding weight is it will make the rifle more stable. Then you get into the discussion of "how heavy is too heavy?" That depends on everyones preference, what and where you will be hunting and just how much weight you are willing to pack. I commonly pack my 15 to 17 lb rifles elk hunting on foot in NM. I will gripe and complain about the weight until it is time to take a long shot then I am glad I have it, and after all, being able to make the shot is what it is all about!!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="RDM416, post: 512128, member: 3745"] McDewbie, There are various ways to deal with recoil. The various recoil tables will simply tell you "how much" recoil a given load/rifle combination will have. Useful information, but it only goes so far. First of all, it is important to manage recoil well in a LR hunting rig for a variety of reasons. If your rifle kicks the snot out of you, you will not shoot it much, you will develop a "flinch" and you simply will not shoot it well. Although not necessary, it is also good to be able to get back on the scope quickly enough to see your bullet impact. How to manage recoil? Weight. Muzzle brake. You have already mentioned adding weight to your rifle. This can be done in variety of ways. Drilling holes in the butt and filling with lead (use #8 or #9 shotgun pellets mixed with epoxy, no lose stuff in the stock). Some will also cut out underneath the barrel and glue in lead shot to keep the balance better if also adding to the butt. The mercury recoil recoil reducers work as well, be sure to follow the directions. Like the lead, those need to be installed tightly so there is no movement. Changing out to a heavier stock is another method of adding weight. DO NOT SOLDER OR ADD WEIGHT TO YOUR BARREL!!!!! A muzzle brake is the other commonly used method that can be added to any rifle. Brakes are very effective although some types are more effective than others. There is quite a lot of information on this site on brakes, so do a search and some reading. If you are going to be shooting a hard kicking caliber a brake is necessary in my opinion. Just remember the hearing protection!!!!!! Many shooters on this site use a combination of the two. A heavy rifle with a brake can tame down even the hardest kicking calibers. One of the rifles I hunt with a lot is a 338 Khan (338-378 wby wildcat) and is a real beast shooting 300 grain bullets at over 3000fps. It has a very efficient brake and weights in at 17 lbs. My Daughter was shooting this rifle when she was 10. I have had several kids from 10 to 13 years old kill deer with this rifle at ranges of 300 yards and more. Recoil is very mild, my 308 AR has more "felt" recoil. One other side advantage to adding weight is it will make the rifle more stable. Then you get into the discussion of "how heavy is too heavy?" That depends on everyones preference, what and where you will be hunting and just how much weight you are willing to pack. I commonly pack my 15 to 17 lb rifles elk hunting on foot in NM. I will gripe and complain about the weight until it is time to take a long shot then I am glad I have it, and after all, being able to make the shot is what it is all about!! [/QUOTE]
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