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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Recoil Pad Help!!!
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<blockquote data-quote="Hugnot" data-source="post: 2024037" data-attributes="member: 115658"><p>That's what I do with my laminate & wood stocks. I would not attempt this with a back saw - my Dewalt compound miter saw has been used for many projects including stock work. Taping the stock with sticky tape helps to prevent chipping. To get a small amount of negative pitch (barrel angled slightly down) I first measure the pitch angle using a level with stock placed upright on level flat surface, pad removed. Then if a pitch change is needed, I place the stock flat on the saw bed and shim it so I get a 90* angle between end of stock and saw bed. Then go for the 3* or so pitch angle with the heel or comb of the stock against the back of the saw bed and an angled cut in towards the toe. </p><p></p><p>My limited experience with plastic stocks has involved filling a hollow or foam filled cavity with wood so screws can be used to hold the pad on. Depending on the type of plastic (tupperware stocks) the epoxy might need some kind of mechanical lock. Gluing a pad on means the pad could be destroyed if it needs to be removed. I often re-install pads on other rifles. A good pad may cost $25 or more and may be reused if the steel inserts are not exposed. Pachmayr makes a good cheap 1/2 inch or so pad with no steel inserts. </p><p></p><p>If you decide to saw stuff, off don't cut into steel parts. The next one you do will go faster and look better.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Hugnot, post: 2024037, member: 115658"] That's what I do with my laminate & wood stocks. I would not attempt this with a back saw - my Dewalt compound miter saw has been used for many projects including stock work. Taping the stock with sticky tape helps to prevent chipping. To get a small amount of negative pitch (barrel angled slightly down) I first measure the pitch angle using a level with stock placed upright on level flat surface, pad removed. Then if a pitch change is needed, I place the stock flat on the saw bed and shim it so I get a 90* angle between end of stock and saw bed. Then go for the 3* or so pitch angle with the heel or comb of the stock against the back of the saw bed and an angled cut in towards the toe. My limited experience with plastic stocks has involved filling a hollow or foam filled cavity with wood so screws can be used to hold the pad on. Depending on the type of plastic (tupperware stocks) the epoxy might need some kind of mechanical lock. Gluing a pad on means the pad could be destroyed if it needs to be removed. I often re-install pads on other rifles. A good pad may cost $25 or more and may be reused if the steel inserts are not exposed. Pachmayr makes a good cheap 1/2 inch or so pad with no steel inserts. If you decide to saw stuff, off don't cut into steel parts. The next one you do will go faster and look better. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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Recoil Pad Help!!!
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