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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Recoil Lugs
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<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 1160923" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>Like everyone else I have my opinions on recoil lugs and will share what I think/know about them.</p><p></p><p>The shape(Straight versus Tapered) Is not that Important If it is installed correctly, the tapered is easier to take in and out of the bedding but has less surface area.</p><p></p><p>Thickness has its practical limits and beyond that offer un needed strength and at the same time can weaken the stock in the lug area. Factory lugs are marginal and when replacing them, I recommend going several sizes thicker. (Factory Remington's are 0.187 and I like the 0.200 or 0.2285 because they are stronger and do not remove a lot of stock. thicker than 0.250 offer nothing in my opinion and serve only to weaken the stock.</p><p></p><p>I am/have been a big fan of Sako's for years but hate there recoil lug design because of the movement it allows so I use steel, and hand fit it to the receiver (Tight) to keep it from loading the action screws. Note; with out exception, changing lug materials and fitting the lug tight to the action has improved the accuracy. (If it made no difference I would not spend the time and effort) </p><p></p><p>Personally, I don't like pinning the recoil lug to the action because drilling a hole axially (Along the center line) in the receiver ring has to reduce its overall strength. and most of us don't shoot puny</p><p>loads/cartridges.</p><p></p><p>The type of luge you chose has less effect than the bedding for it and different types of lugs may require different ways of bedding it to achieve maximum benefit from it. The main purpose for bedding , is to prevent the action from moving and loading the bedding/action screws where they become recoil lugs.</p><p></p><p>Just my opinion</p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 1160923, member: 2736"] Like everyone else I have my opinions on recoil lugs and will share what I think/know about them. The shape(Straight versus Tapered) Is not that Important If it is installed correctly, the tapered is easier to take in and out of the bedding but has less surface area. Thickness has its practical limits and beyond that offer un needed strength and at the same time can weaken the stock in the lug area. Factory lugs are marginal and when replacing them, I recommend going several sizes thicker. (Factory Remington's are 0.187 and I like the 0.200 or 0.2285 because they are stronger and do not remove a lot of stock. thicker than 0.250 offer nothing in my opinion and serve only to weaken the stock. I am/have been a big fan of Sako's for years but hate there recoil lug design because of the movement it allows so I use steel, and hand fit it to the receiver (Tight) to keep it from loading the action screws. Note; with out exception, changing lug materials and fitting the lug tight to the action has improved the accuracy. (If it made no difference I would not spend the time and effort) Personally, I don't like pinning the recoil lug to the action because drilling a hole axially (Along the center line) in the receiver ring has to reduce its overall strength. and most of us don't shoot puny loads/cartridges. The type of luge you chose has less effect than the bedding for it and different types of lugs may require different ways of bedding it to achieve maximum benefit from it. The main purpose for bedding , is to prevent the action from moving and loading the bedding/action screws where they become recoil lugs. Just my opinion J E CUSTOM [/QUOTE]
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