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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Recoil lug thickness studies
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<blockquote data-quote="Rflshootr" data-source="post: 2813765" data-attributes="member: 10284"><p>Not really. It takes a fairly large amount of force to shear a piece of steel 3/16" thick. Even if the stock started out flat and parallel, there is always distortion, especially at the edges, when shearing/stamping. I guess it depends on what a person considers "flat". I don't consider .001-.002 flatness/parallel acceptable. There is a difference between the two. The only way to get something truly flat and parallel is through lapping and grinding operations which, like you said adds more operations, drives the cost up and lowers production. When I rework a lug, I grind as flat as possible, lap the best side as flat as I can get, then skim grind the opposite side a 2nd time to insure parallelism. They're usually within .0002 or less. When I make one from scratch, the blank gets rough ground flat & parallel, the hole drilled and bored square to the faces, the outside profile milled, deburred and then check-lapped one side and final grind on the other to a thickness of .200. I pick that thickness for 2 reasons...one it adds a bit of beef over the standard 3/16 factory lug, and .200 is an easy number to work with when setting head space.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Rflshootr, post: 2813765, member: 10284"] Not really. It takes a fairly large amount of force to shear a piece of steel 3/16" thick. Even if the stock started out flat and parallel, there is always distortion, especially at the edges, when shearing/stamping. I guess it depends on what a person considers "flat". I don't consider .001-.002 flatness/parallel acceptable. There is a difference between the two. The only way to get something truly flat and parallel is through lapping and grinding operations which, like you said adds more operations, drives the cost up and lowers production. When I rework a lug, I grind as flat as possible, lap the best side as flat as I can get, then skim grind the opposite side a 2nd time to insure parallelism. They're usually within .0002 or less. When I make one from scratch, the blank gets rough ground flat & parallel, the hole drilled and bored square to the faces, the outside profile milled, deburred and then check-lapped one side and final grind on the other to a thickness of .200. I pick that thickness for 2 reasons...one it adds a bit of beef over the standard 3/16 factory lug, and .200 is an easy number to work with when setting head space. [/QUOTE]
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Recoil lug thickness studies
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