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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Recoil lug realy needed??
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<blockquote data-quote="James Jones" data-source="post: 180771" data-attributes="member: 8843"><p>Making a V-block that attaches to the barrel and the action is not that hard ,I actualy made one already just to have something to look at ,the block even had a step so that the barrel shank and the action had the same amout of conatack pressure despite their being .105" differance in diameter. As for drilling the holes it would not be an issue as long as your mill and vise are both true , you would simply aligne the front action screw with the bottom dead center of the barrel , theoreticaly the front action screw would be dead center of the action and if you index the barrel correctly so that the curve is pointing up rather than to either side the two holes you drill and tape in the barrel shank will be strait in line with the bore.</p><p>Darrel Holland does a simillar setup but sets up thae barrel so that the recoil lug yes way up close to the radius of the barrel and it seats up against the block and the lug is held in place by a nut. </p><p> </p><p>Their are probably a dozen ways to skin this cat but I have decide to simply bed the action the conventional way with pillers and bedding under the shank of the barrel. I'll be using a 3/4" piller i the rear and a 1.25" piller in the front. The rear piller will be holding the action in place under the trigger guard which will be glued in place. the front piller will be fully surrounded by ALOT of bedding the bedding will be 1" deep and 1.75" wide and extend from the front of the trigger group to 3" in front of the action. This action has a Davidson singleshot follower glued in place so the whole mag well will be filler with bedding.</p><p> </p><p>I'm going to add a good bit of atomized SS powder to the Devcon Steel Putty so that its glue to steel ratio is very low , just enought to set up hard (I'm testing that now) and the action screws have been custom made , the rear action scrwon the M-7 comes from the factory way undersized , it has been drilled and tapped for 1/4-28+.010" like the front which was retapped ,the screws are made from 3/8" 17-4 SS flat head torx head screws with 82 deg taper , they have been cut down and single point cut to a snug 1/4-28+.009" thread and hardened the screws fit into the action with zero detectible play and are clean as glass.</p><p> </p><p>The purpose of this gun is to make tiny little groups at 600 and 1000yds with 115gr Berger bullets. but still weigh in the 17lb glass. Personaly i think that I'm way over thinking and way over engineering this project but its gonna be my first run a target comps and I'd like it to be built to be able to hang with the best. If you think this is over built you should see my rest !!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="James Jones, post: 180771, member: 8843"] Making a V-block that attaches to the barrel and the action is not that hard ,I actualy made one already just to have something to look at ,the block even had a step so that the barrel shank and the action had the same amout of conatack pressure despite their being .105" differance in diameter. As for drilling the holes it would not be an issue as long as your mill and vise are both true , you would simply aligne the front action screw with the bottom dead center of the barrel , theoreticaly the front action screw would be dead center of the action and if you index the barrel correctly so that the curve is pointing up rather than to either side the two holes you drill and tape in the barrel shank will be strait in line with the bore. Darrel Holland does a simillar setup but sets up thae barrel so that the recoil lug yes way up close to the radius of the barrel and it seats up against the block and the lug is held in place by a nut. Their are probably a dozen ways to skin this cat but I have decide to simply bed the action the conventional way with pillers and bedding under the shank of the barrel. I'll be using a 3/4" piller i the rear and a 1.25" piller in the front. The rear piller will be holding the action in place under the trigger guard which will be glued in place. the front piller will be fully surrounded by ALOT of bedding the bedding will be 1" deep and 1.75" wide and extend from the front of the trigger group to 3" in front of the action. This action has a Davidson singleshot follower glued in place so the whole mag well will be filler with bedding. I'm going to add a good bit of atomized SS powder to the Devcon Steel Putty so that its glue to steel ratio is very low , just enought to set up hard (I'm testing that now) and the action screws have been custom made , the rear action scrwon the M-7 comes from the factory way undersized , it has been drilled and tapped for 1/4-28+.010" like the front which was retapped ,the screws are made from 3/8" 17-4 SS flat head torx head screws with 82 deg taper , they have been cut down and single point cut to a snug 1/4-28+.009" thread and hardened the screws fit into the action with zero detectible play and are clean as glass. The purpose of this gun is to make tiny little groups at 600 and 1000yds with 115gr Berger bullets. but still weigh in the 17lb glass. Personaly i think that I'm way over thinking and way over engineering this project but its gonna be my first run a target comps and I'd like it to be built to be able to hang with the best. If you think this is over built you should see my rest !! [/QUOTE]
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Recoil lug realy needed??
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