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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Receiver Pressure
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<blockquote data-quote="shortgrass" data-source="post: 3009916" data-attributes="member: 24284"><p>The #4 is a stronger design than the #6. All of these "Boys Rifles" were made of low carbon steel.. The frame itself is not case hardened, but the hammer and breech block are. The solid frame models are stronger than the take-down model. The take-down that uses the screw, instead of the lever, is the 'stronger' of the take-down models. As long as the parts are in reasonably good condition, a good up-grade is to make the hinge screw, that the block rides on, out of 4140HT or some other, comparable, hardened steel. 4140HT being the most desirable and the easiest to get. It's not too hard and not too soft. It handles shock well. I have seen a strip of steel 'laminated' to the face of the breech block to "re-new" the face. The #4 is capable of any of the current rim fires, where as the #6 would be "iffy", because of its lessor design. If using the original barrel on a take-down, the 'shank' that goes into the receiver can be turned-down and a sleeve that fits the receiver better can be made and soldered on,,,,, improves the barrel to receiver fit, which is a 'good thing'. Most original barrels need to be lined. When re-building, new reproduction springs are not a bad idea.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shortgrass, post: 3009916, member: 24284"] The #4 is a stronger design than the #6. All of these "Boys Rifles" were made of low carbon steel.. The frame itself is not case hardened, but the hammer and breech block are. The solid frame models are stronger than the take-down model. The take-down that uses the screw, instead of the lever, is the 'stronger' of the take-down models. As long as the parts are in reasonably good condition, a good up-grade is to make the hinge screw, that the block rides on, out of 4140HT or some other, comparable, hardened steel. 4140HT being the most desirable and the easiest to get. It's not too hard and not too soft. It handles shock well. I have seen a strip of steel 'laminated' to the face of the breech block to "re-new" the face. The #4 is capable of any of the current rim fires, where as the #6 would be "iffy", because of its lessor design. If using the original barrel on a take-down, the 'shank' that goes into the receiver can be turned-down and a sleeve that fits the receiver better can be made and soldered on,,,,, improves the barrel to receiver fit, which is a 'good thing'. Most original barrels need to be lined. When re-building, new reproduction springs are not a bad idea. [/QUOTE]
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