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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
??? Reamer Holder ????
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<blockquote data-quote="specweldtom" data-source="post: 398954" data-attributes="member: 2580"><p>It has a ball end tenon on the pusher and a slightly larger ball socket in the back of the reamer holder. As I said, it appears to have very limited (if any) radial float, so your tailstock quill will have to be very close to true with the spindle. RockJag said it has radial float, but I don't see it. </p><p></p><p>Don't count on any holder correcting very much misalignment. Too easy to wallow out a chamber.</p><p></p><p>Any vertical misalignment should be under .001" when the tailstock is clamped down. I'd be surprised if it's that much. Not much I know to do to correct vertical. </p><p></p><p>On moving the tailstock, you probably won't have to move it just to cut short chambers, but you will want to in order to inspect the chamber every so often, and for checking headspace. Then you'll have to unlock the tailstock and slide it back. I believe that Fitch positions and locks his carriage down as a stop for the tailstock. Start out with the tailstock bumped against the locked carriage, and when you pull the tailstock back, you can return it to position by bumping it against the carriage again. I'm going to start doing it. If you use a Manson or Clymer floating holder, and you have only 4" of travel, I think you will end up having to relocate the tailstock, maybe for every cut when you get down close on a long chamber, like a RUM or a big Weatherby. You have to pull the pilot clear to do a good cleaning between cuts. I haven't used the pusher yet, but it might eliminate the need to slide the tailstock back and forth. I don't know yet. In the end though, you will have to move the tailstock out of the way to screw the action on and set headspace made up handy in the lathe.</p><p></p><p>I agree with Fitch on doing the work yourself. I hate working on stocks, but the lathe work is a lot of fun (when you get it right).</p><p></p><p>Tom</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="specweldtom, post: 398954, member: 2580"] It has a ball end tenon on the pusher and a slightly larger ball socket in the back of the reamer holder. As I said, it appears to have very limited (if any) radial float, so your tailstock quill will have to be very close to true with the spindle. RockJag said it has radial float, but I don't see it. Don't count on any holder correcting very much misalignment. Too easy to wallow out a chamber. Any vertical misalignment should be under .001" when the tailstock is clamped down. I'd be surprised if it's that much. Not much I know to do to correct vertical. On moving the tailstock, you probably won't have to move it just to cut short chambers, but you will want to in order to inspect the chamber every so often, and for checking headspace. Then you'll have to unlock the tailstock and slide it back. I believe that Fitch positions and locks his carriage down as a stop for the tailstock. Start out with the tailstock bumped against the locked carriage, and when you pull the tailstock back, you can return it to position by bumping it against the carriage again. I'm going to start doing it. If you use a Manson or Clymer floating holder, and you have only 4" of travel, I think you will end up having to relocate the tailstock, maybe for every cut when you get down close on a long chamber, like a RUM or a big Weatherby. You have to pull the pilot clear to do a good cleaning between cuts. I haven't used the pusher yet, but it might eliminate the need to slide the tailstock back and forth. I don't know yet. In the end though, you will have to move the tailstock out of the way to screw the action on and set headspace made up handy in the lathe. I agree with Fitch on doing the work yourself. I hate working on stocks, but the lathe work is a lot of fun (when you get it right). Tom [/QUOTE]
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Gunsmithing
??? Reamer Holder ????
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