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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
??? Reamer Holder ????
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<blockquote data-quote="Fitch" data-source="post: 398774" data-attributes="member: 19372"><p>Thanks guys.</p><p> </p><p>While I'm at it I should include some critical data on the pusher and how I use it. </p><p> </p><p>The hole in the pusher in the tail stock is about .020" larger in diameter than the reamer shank and deep enough that the end of the reamer won't bottom in it. I didn't want anything but the front face to contact the reamer assy. This gives me enough play to accomodate the hight variation between my tail stock and the spindle, yet limits the reamer's movement which makes it easier to get it started.</p><p> </p><p>I feed with the tailstock wheel and use a dial indicator mounted like this to watch the depth:</p><p> </p><p><img src="http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b336/frwillia/ToolForMeasuringRamTravel-1.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p> </p><p>I've found that by doing some "practice landings" where I use the go gage, pick a new depth, mic it, then try to hit that new depth using the dial indicator, I have no trouble hitting the mark within the line width on the indicator face, and it will mic at the desired depth will within half a division. </p><p> </p><p>Making cutting passes:</p><p> </p><p>I can feel the torque and regulate the feed to keep it smooth - holding the reamer handle in my left hand, turning the tail stock feed wheel with my right hand. Normally the feed is smooth, there is no jerking to speak of, and I can easily regulate the feed to maintain a constant torque. I can tell essentially instantly if anything is amiss in the chamber. The one time I had chatter begin to start I was able to immediately let go of the handle, back off the tail stock, turn off the spindle, clean the reamer, relube it, and use a couple of patch restarts which corrected the chatter problem before it turned into a real problem. Chatter won't self correct, it will just get worse.</p><p> </p><p>When I see chips show up, or I've gone about .025" in depth of cut (which ever come first), I let go of the handle, back off the tail stock quill enough turns (the same every time) to clear the reamer shank, turn off the lathe spindle, and remove the reamer. Letting go of the handle and letting it spin avoids galling from a chip getting under a reamer flute that might happen if I tried to remove the reamer with the spindle still turning. Removing it with the spindle stopped makes that a complete non issue.</p><p> </p><p>Note: It's important to have a short enough handle that it can spin clear of the cross slide and compound if the compound is in place when chambering. Mine is. </p><p> </p><p>I use the lathe carriage as a tail stock stop - i.e. I position it against the tailstock and tighten the clamp to lock it in place when I know where the tailstock is to be located. That way I can pull the tail stock back after retracting the tail stock spindle half an inch or so and withdraw the reamer straight out of the chamber and easily move the tailstock back to the same location.</p><p> </p><p>Once the reamer is out I use a rubber tipped air nozzle to blow the chips out of the chamber (and look in there to be sure they are gone), rinse chips off the reamer in a container of paint thinner, blow it dry with compressed air, dip it in the cutting oil, and reinsert it into the chamber. Then I run the tail stock back up, clamp it, then advance the tail stock quill with the hand crank to get it back over the shank of the reamer. I can tell from the dial indicator almost 'exactly" when the reamer will start cutting again. When I'm close I start the spindle and begin the next cut.</p><p> </p><p>Fitch</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fitch, post: 398774, member: 19372"] Thanks guys. While I'm at it I should include some critical data on the pusher and how I use it. The hole in the pusher in the tail stock is about .020" larger in diameter than the reamer shank and deep enough that the end of the reamer won't bottom in it. I didn't want anything but the front face to contact the reamer assy. This gives me enough play to accomodate the hight variation between my tail stock and the spindle, yet limits the reamer's movement which makes it easier to get it started. I feed with the tailstock wheel and use a dial indicator mounted like this to watch the depth: [IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b336/frwillia/ToolForMeasuringRamTravel-1.jpg[/IMG] I've found that by doing some "practice landings" where I use the go gage, pick a new depth, mic it, then try to hit that new depth using the dial indicator, I have no trouble hitting the mark within the line width on the indicator face, and it will mic at the desired depth will within half a division. Making cutting passes: I can feel the torque and regulate the feed to keep it smooth - holding the reamer handle in my left hand, turning the tail stock feed wheel with my right hand. Normally the feed is smooth, there is no jerking to speak of, and I can easily regulate the feed to maintain a constant torque. I can tell essentially instantly if anything is amiss in the chamber. The one time I had chatter begin to start I was able to immediately let go of the handle, back off the tail stock, turn off the spindle, clean the reamer, relube it, and use a couple of patch restarts which corrected the chatter problem before it turned into a real problem. Chatter won't self correct, it will just get worse. When I see chips show up, or I've gone about .025" in depth of cut (which ever come first), I let go of the handle, back off the tail stock quill enough turns (the same every time) to clear the reamer shank, turn off the lathe spindle, and remove the reamer. Letting go of the handle and letting it spin avoids galling from a chip getting under a reamer flute that might happen if I tried to remove the reamer with the spindle still turning. Removing it with the spindle stopped makes that a complete non issue. Note: It's important to have a short enough handle that it can spin clear of the cross slide and compound if the compound is in place when chambering. Mine is. I use the lathe carriage as a tail stock stop - i.e. I position it against the tailstock and tighten the clamp to lock it in place when I know where the tailstock is to be located. That way I can pull the tail stock back after retracting the tail stock spindle half an inch or so and withdraw the reamer straight out of the chamber and easily move the tailstock back to the same location. Once the reamer is out I use a rubber tipped air nozzle to blow the chips out of the chamber (and look in there to be sure they are gone), rinse chips off the reamer in a container of paint thinner, blow it dry with compressed air, dip it in the cutting oil, and reinsert it into the chamber. Then I run the tail stock back up, clamp it, then advance the tail stock quill with the hand crank to get it back over the shank of the reamer. I can tell from the dial indicator almost 'exactly" when the reamer will start cutting again. When I'm close I start the spindle and begin the next cut. Fitch [/QUOTE]
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