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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Rcbs FL question.
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<blockquote data-quote="25WSM" data-source="post: 1770544" data-attributes="member: 38048"><p>Grizhint I was the Smith trying to help you out last time. I am so happy you got the tools you need. On the 243 you said it was a little to deep on the shoulder so you backed out a full turn. A full turn is around 71 thou or .071 this is why you don't see it coming down the neck to the junction. I bet you only needed to come up about .005 tops and that's a guess because I didn't see any mention of how much to deep you were. If you were to put 2 dots on your lock ring about 1/8 of an inch apart you will move about .003 thou per dot. Once you are close like just touching the shell holder close you barely move the die at all to get correct bump. You 243 is basically neck sizing 3/4 neck right now. But it isn't at all resizing the body. If you call me I will go over anything you want to about it. It is a very important adjustment that the factories don't even tell you. Die companies want you to be able to get that piece of brass in a chamber and bolt closed and boom. They don't care about your accuracy or case life. Biggest reason for cracked necks. Dies squeeze your neck way to tight and then expand them back big to fit the bullet with the right grip. Why. Because different brass neck thickness means you can't have one diameter neck on a die and get the same tension. That's why we buy bushing dies. Crush the neck to the right size one time it's done. No over working the neck to make it hard and brittle. With proper anealling you will lose primer pocket tightness before you crack a neck. Personally msg sent I hope.</p><p>Shep</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="25WSM, post: 1770544, member: 38048"] Grizhint I was the Smith trying to help you out last time. I am so happy you got the tools you need. On the 243 you said it was a little to deep on the shoulder so you backed out a full turn. A full turn is around 71 thou or .071 this is why you don't see it coming down the neck to the junction. I bet you only needed to come up about .005 tops and that's a guess because I didn't see any mention of how much to deep you were. If you were to put 2 dots on your lock ring about 1/8 of an inch apart you will move about .003 thou per dot. Once you are close like just touching the shell holder close you barely move the die at all to get correct bump. You 243 is basically neck sizing 3/4 neck right now. But it isn't at all resizing the body. If you call me I will go over anything you want to about it. It is a very important adjustment that the factories don't even tell you. Die companies want you to be able to get that piece of brass in a chamber and bolt closed and boom. They don't care about your accuracy or case life. Biggest reason for cracked necks. Dies squeeze your neck way to tight and then expand them back big to fit the bullet with the right grip. Why. Because different brass neck thickness means you can't have one diameter neck on a die and get the same tension. That's why we buy bushing dies. Crush the neck to the right size one time it's done. No over working the neck to make it hard and brittle. With proper anealling you will lose primer pocket tightness before you crack a neck. Personally msg sent I hope. Shep [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Rcbs FL question.
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