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Hunting
Coyote Hunting - From 10 Yards to over 1,000 Yards
Ramblings and Such From Hunting Coyote
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<blockquote data-quote="DSheetz" data-source="post: 2778842" data-attributes="member: 91783"><p>The main thing is to fill in any rough places in the bore and get them smoothed out so that it stops grabbing copper and runs smoothly, for consistent bullet performance. Today's bores start out better than any made before them have ever. I still do the one and clean then 3 and clean with the boretech eliminator for a few rounds, I sight in at the same time as the ten one shots then fine tune my loads. I use a wet brush in my bore and a good bronze and stainless-steel chamber brush for the carbon ring with prolong penetrating oil, it breaks down carbon well so don't let it get on my stocks ect. and will not harm steel it was designed for use in engines, I plug my barrel stand it on the muzzle and fill the chamber to soak overnight to soften any carbon ring. I run dry patches and a shotgun bore mop to clean out the chambers. The final patches run through the bore are with frog lube but then I use frog lube on all of my metal parts firing pin, trigger, bolt raceway, bolt, and all of the outside of my rifles. I was using some ammonia-based copper fowling removers and some hydrogen cyanide-based copper fowling cleaners they are hard on me and my equipment a seal friend of mine told me about the frog lube. Alot of years ago I used boat wax instead of the CLP in the green can, to protect from rain and high humidity, in a different world, and graphite in the bolt for the firing pin and spring as well as on the bolt and raceway, so that the dirt, dust and cold weather didn't mess with its function in this climate. As with anything else I like to hear how others do things so that I might hear of a better way and change how I do things. Thank You for sharing it's a never-ending process of improvement!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DSheetz, post: 2778842, member: 91783"] The main thing is to fill in any rough places in the bore and get them smoothed out so that it stops grabbing copper and runs smoothly, for consistent bullet performance. Today's bores start out better than any made before them have ever. I still do the one and clean then 3 and clean with the boretech eliminator for a few rounds, I sight in at the same time as the ten one shots then fine tune my loads. I use a wet brush in my bore and a good bronze and stainless-steel chamber brush for the carbon ring with prolong penetrating oil, it breaks down carbon well so don't let it get on my stocks ect. and will not harm steel it was designed for use in engines, I plug my barrel stand it on the muzzle and fill the chamber to soak overnight to soften any carbon ring. I run dry patches and a shotgun bore mop to clean out the chambers. The final patches run through the bore are with frog lube but then I use frog lube on all of my metal parts firing pin, trigger, bolt raceway, bolt, and all of the outside of my rifles. I was using some ammonia-based copper fowling removers and some hydrogen cyanide-based copper fowling cleaners they are hard on me and my equipment a seal friend of mine told me about the frog lube. Alot of years ago I used boat wax instead of the CLP in the green can, to protect from rain and high humidity, in a different world, and graphite in the bolt for the firing pin and spring as well as on the bolt and raceway, so that the dirt, dust and cold weather didn't mess with its function in this climate. As with anything else I like to hear how others do things so that I might hear of a better way and change how I do things. Thank You for sharing it's a never-ending process of improvement! [/QUOTE]
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Hunting
Coyote Hunting - From 10 Yards to over 1,000 Yards
Ramblings and Such From Hunting Coyote
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