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Coyote Hunting - From 10 Yards to over 1,000 Yards
Ramblings and Such From Hunting Coyote
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<blockquote data-quote="DSheetz" data-source="post: 2530629" data-attributes="member: 91783"><p>At the time I was learning about snaring there were some good people out there that knew how to snare . I started with Tompson snares but they didn't do what I wanted where I live and for what I needed . I went with Gregerson snares next . They did better for me in my situation but I still wasn't completely satisfied . Next I went with Patterson knot snares that I made from 7x7x3/32 aircraft cable they did better for me . next I went with a longer cable as advised by Craig O Gorman . They were a little long for my needs . So a 5 foot snare was too short as was a 6 and 7 foot snare . But a 10 foot snare was too long I made up some 8 and 9 foot snares put them out and found that I tended to like the 8 foot snares for my style of snaring . Almost all of the older guys said that using baking soda and simmering then to clean them and knock the shine off of them was the better way to go , so I said to my self lets do it that way . I did try not doing it and found coyote avoiding them till the shine went away on it's own with time and weather so figured doing it was time well spent . The older more experienced guys told me you need to hang your snares so that they are held solid and don't wiggle around in the wind . Some of them used 14 gauge wire some of them used 9 wire with a collar on the cable to fasten them to the 9 wire . both worked well for me and had places where they worked better one way then the other . I don't like catching other things then predators so found for me here in my area that trail sets did that way too often . So for me then I used crawl unders in fence lines the most and ended up using them almost exclusively . I found that a 10 inch loop was about as good as I could get for that with the bottom of the loop a couple of inch's off the ground for a couple of reasons . I wanted the coyotes front feet to go beside and under the snare loop not through it neck catch's are my goal . Next here the snow and rain will freeze the cable in the bottom of the hole under the fence and you get bad catches or no catches . I like my cable a couple of inches from the fence wire so it doesn't interfere with it's closing , but not too far from it so the animal doesn't go between it and the fence or knock it down before going through the snare loop . With the amount of winds we have here I learned to set the snare with the lock tilted upward slightly so the wind didn't blow it closed . Our state laws changed and made the Patterson knot illegal to use as it didn't have a break away to it . So I went to the cam-locks with a 165 lb. s hook style break away device . Dam a lot of stuff hanging around to be seen oh well make it dull not shinney , not rough so it will still closes fast . pre set the cable by pulling it over a broom handle or something like that so it wants to close kind of like spring loading the cable . Next came the no part of a snare can be attached to the fence . Ok a rebar trap steak with 9 wire wrapped at the top driven in the ground with the wire sticking up next to the fence bent so that your loop is where you want it to hang . They make things to anchor your snares and traps with but I like the old fashioned trap stakes put through my snare loop at the end of my cable . With all of my rocky ground I cross stake with two 18 inch rebar stakes my end loop is around an inch so my stakes are made with 1/2 inch rebar with a 1/2 flat washer welded on the end of it . They are reusable and being put in at opposing angles only pull out one at a time . I use an 8 inch pair of vice grip pliers below the washer then twist the rebar till it's loose in the ground and pull it out of the ground . there are different ways that people might like better then my ways but my way works for me and doesn't cost me a lot in money or time .</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DSheetz, post: 2530629, member: 91783"] At the time I was learning about snaring there were some good people out there that knew how to snare . I started with Tompson snares but they didn't do what I wanted where I live and for what I needed . I went with Gregerson snares next . They did better for me in my situation but I still wasn't completely satisfied . Next I went with Patterson knot snares that I made from 7x7x3/32 aircraft cable they did better for me . next I went with a longer cable as advised by Craig O Gorman . They were a little long for my needs . So a 5 foot snare was too short as was a 6 and 7 foot snare . But a 10 foot snare was too long I made up some 8 and 9 foot snares put them out and found that I tended to like the 8 foot snares for my style of snaring . Almost all of the older guys said that using baking soda and simmering then to clean them and knock the shine off of them was the better way to go , so I said to my self lets do it that way . I did try not doing it and found coyote avoiding them till the shine went away on it's own with time and weather so figured doing it was time well spent . The older more experienced guys told me you need to hang your snares so that they are held solid and don't wiggle around in the wind . Some of them used 14 gauge wire some of them used 9 wire with a collar on the cable to fasten them to the 9 wire . both worked well for me and had places where they worked better one way then the other . I don't like catching other things then predators so found for me here in my area that trail sets did that way too often . So for me then I used crawl unders in fence lines the most and ended up using them almost exclusively . I found that a 10 inch loop was about as good as I could get for that with the bottom of the loop a couple of inch's off the ground for a couple of reasons . I wanted the coyotes front feet to go beside and under the snare loop not through it neck catch's are my goal . Next here the snow and rain will freeze the cable in the bottom of the hole under the fence and you get bad catches or no catches . I like my cable a couple of inches from the fence wire so it doesn't interfere with it's closing , but not too far from it so the animal doesn't go between it and the fence or knock it down before going through the snare loop . With the amount of winds we have here I learned to set the snare with the lock tilted upward slightly so the wind didn't blow it closed . Our state laws changed and made the Patterson knot illegal to use as it didn't have a break away to it . So I went to the cam-locks with a 165 lb. s hook style break away device . Dam a lot of stuff hanging around to be seen oh well make it dull not shinney , not rough so it will still closes fast . pre set the cable by pulling it over a broom handle or something like that so it wants to close kind of like spring loading the cable . Next came the no part of a snare can be attached to the fence . Ok a rebar trap steak with 9 wire wrapped at the top driven in the ground with the wire sticking up next to the fence bent so that your loop is where you want it to hang . They make things to anchor your snares and traps with but I like the old fashioned trap stakes put through my snare loop at the end of my cable . With all of my rocky ground I cross stake with two 18 inch rebar stakes my end loop is around an inch so my stakes are made with 1/2 inch rebar with a 1/2 flat washer welded on the end of it . They are reusable and being put in at opposing angles only pull out one at a time . I use an 8 inch pair of vice grip pliers below the washer then twist the rebar till it's loose in the ground and pull it out of the ground . there are different ways that people might like better then my ways but my way works for me and doesn't cost me a lot in money or time . [/QUOTE]
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Ramblings and Such From Hunting Coyote
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