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Questions to those reloading 12 ga Tungsten turkey shells.
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<blockquote data-quote="Clay Target Guy" data-source="post: 1632814" data-attributes="member: 68920"><p>Ok, let me start at the start </p><p>First, I only load brand new hulls and they only get used for one shot. There is no need to resize or any of that, it is one and done. I reload a lot of shotgun shells for clay target practice but TSS reloading is definitely not the same.</p><p>Geap makes the best roll crimped I have ever used (my opinion).</p><p>So this is the way it works (I will make it simple for example).</p><p>Your recipe says to use X brand hulls (most new hulls come already primed so no need to worry about that step).</p><p>Your recipe will also tell you to use Y brand was. Most of the time the recipe will have you cut slits to within 1/8" from the bottom of the shot cup (this is where the razor blade comes in). You will cut 4 slits at 90 degrees to each other. They do not have to be exactly perfect at 90 or even straight but I try to do the best I can. I took a scrap piece of wood and drilled a hole in it so it fits around the wad and cut the thickness to give me the 1/8" from the bottom of the cup. I push the razor blade down thru the wad until I hit the block. The blade will cut two of the 4 slots at once. I turn to blade 90 degrees and repeat. </p><p>Every recipe I have seen says to mica the wad. I drop my wads in an old coffee can with a spoon of mica, put the lid on and shake it up for a couple of minutes. </p><p>Now I measure out the amount of gun powder and put it in the hull. </p><p>Now I take a wad and put it in the hull. I take a piece of dowel rod and push it in and seat it by using the palm of my hand. </p><p>Now here is where some recipes call for fillers, or maybe a mylar wrap to be added and some recipes have none of these. If you need to have the fillers or wrap, add them. </p><p>Now you're ready to weigh your shot and pour it into the wad.</p><p>Once again every recipe I have seen has you use buffer (make sure you get the type the recipe specifies). Weigh the amount of buffer and pour it on top of the shot.</p><p>Now you're ready to vibrate the buffer down into the shot. There are 47 million ways to do it but I use a vib case cleaner for cleaning my rifle brass. I turn it on and place my little finger between the vib cleaner and the bottom of the hull. I can push down hard and make the buffer go down into the shot fast or apply lite pressure and go slow. Slow is what you are looking for. </p><p>We have a shell that is ready for an overshot card and is ready for roll crimping. </p><p>When you get ready to roll crimp, (I use a drill press) I bring the roll crimping bit down till I can feel it touch the mouth of the hull, and let it dwell for a few seconds to allow it to warm the plastic up. This makes the crimp to roll easier and look better. I pull down till you feel it stop solid, and you are done</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Clay Target Guy, post: 1632814, member: 68920"] Ok, let me start at the start First, I only load brand new hulls and they only get used for one shot. There is no need to resize or any of that, it is one and done. I reload a lot of shotgun shells for clay target practice but TSS reloading is definitely not the same. Geap makes the best roll crimped I have ever used (my opinion). So this is the way it works (I will make it simple for example). Your recipe says to use X brand hulls (most new hulls come already primed so no need to worry about that step). Your recipe will also tell you to use Y brand was. Most of the time the recipe will have you cut slits to within 1/8" from the bottom of the shot cup (this is where the razor blade comes in). You will cut 4 slits at 90 degrees to each other. They do not have to be exactly perfect at 90 or even straight but I try to do the best I can. I took a scrap piece of wood and drilled a hole in it so it fits around the wad and cut the thickness to give me the 1/8" from the bottom of the cup. I push the razor blade down thru the wad until I hit the block. The blade will cut two of the 4 slots at once. I turn to blade 90 degrees and repeat. Every recipe I have seen says to mica the wad. I drop my wads in an old coffee can with a spoon of mica, put the lid on and shake it up for a couple of minutes. Now I measure out the amount of gun powder and put it in the hull. Now I take a wad and put it in the hull. I take a piece of dowel rod and push it in and seat it by using the palm of my hand. Now here is where some recipes call for fillers, or maybe a mylar wrap to be added and some recipes have none of these. If you need to have the fillers or wrap, add them. Now you're ready to weigh your shot and pour it into the wad. Once again every recipe I have seen has you use buffer (make sure you get the type the recipe specifies). Weigh the amount of buffer and pour it on top of the shot. Now you're ready to vibrate the buffer down into the shot. There are 47 million ways to do it but I use a vib case cleaner for cleaning my rifle brass. I turn it on and place my little finger between the vib cleaner and the bottom of the hull. I can push down hard and make the buffer go down into the shot fast or apply lite pressure and go slow. Slow is what you are looking for. We have a shell that is ready for an overshot card and is ready for roll crimping. When you get ready to roll crimp, (I use a drill press) I bring the roll crimping bit down till I can feel it touch the mouth of the hull, and let it dwell for a few seconds to allow it to warm the plastic up. This makes the crimp to roll easier and look better. I pull down till you feel it stop solid, and you are done [/QUOTE]
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Questions to those reloading 12 ga Tungsten turkey shells.
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