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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Videos Of Tech Stuff And Reviews
Proper way to Blue print a bolt
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<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 1935466" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>There are many ways to achieve the desired results and many times you have to decide which way is best for that receiver. I will single point if the action has poor threads and are not concentric with the bolt bore, sometimes if they are true, I will chase them to remove any high spots. (If you look close at the threads you will often see a line perpendicular to the threads where they stopped cutting without backing off) these threads need to be single point cut for sure. I always clean up the threads with a quality tap to remove the thread sealer that prevents you from testing/inspecting the action threads.</p><p></p><p>Then after the inspection the decision can be made. (No two actions have the same problems)</p><p>If you single point the threads, it enlarges them and the barrel threads have to be cut to fit properly, so if the thread are good quality and concentric with the bore centerline less is required and the thread size remains In spec.</p><p></p><p>The bolt set up works If the lathe chuck is accurate. (I have my 3 jaw down to .0003, but for a higher degree of accuracy, the 4 jaw will normally get you closer to .0000 (Almost impossible to achieve) by cutting the aluminum Mandrell off the bolt barrel It trues the mandrel to the center line. (But you must do it each time you true a bolt because the threads inside the back of the bolt are never the same) Mine started at more than 2 '' and has been replaced several time when the chucking shaft got smaller then 3/4 " from re cutting/truing.</p><p></p><p>Some smiths like/prefer looser threads so they can self center, I prefer well fitted threads that I know are centered with everything else so there is less chance of any misalignment to the absolute center line,but extra steps have to be taken to prevent galling.</p><p></p><p>As far as which method is best, I don't think there is any good way to tell because of the other variables that could falsifier/misdirect the results. </p><p></p><p>The only thing that I have noticed is that the better the truing, the less finicky it is to different loads. Results are what counts, the method used is a personal preference based on the smiths</p><p>consistent results. The Video shows the items that need to be addressed, and if another method works best for the individual action it should be used.</p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 1935466, member: 2736"] There are many ways to achieve the desired results and many times you have to decide which way is best for that receiver. I will single point if the action has poor threads and are not concentric with the bolt bore, sometimes if they are true, I will chase them to remove any high spots. (If you look close at the threads you will often see a line perpendicular to the threads where they stopped cutting without backing off) these threads need to be single point cut for sure. I always clean up the threads with a quality tap to remove the thread sealer that prevents you from testing/inspecting the action threads. Then after the inspection the decision can be made. (No two actions have the same problems) If you single point the threads, it enlarges them and the barrel threads have to be cut to fit properly, so if the thread are good quality and concentric with the bore centerline less is required and the thread size remains In spec. The bolt set up works If the lathe chuck is accurate. (I have my 3 jaw down to .0003, but for a higher degree of accuracy, the 4 jaw will normally get you closer to .0000 (Almost impossible to achieve) by cutting the aluminum Mandrell off the bolt barrel It trues the mandrel to the center line. (But you must do it each time you true a bolt because the threads inside the back of the bolt are never the same) Mine started at more than 2 '' and has been replaced several time when the chucking shaft got smaller then 3/4 " from re cutting/truing. Some smiths like/prefer looser threads so they can self center, I prefer well fitted threads that I know are centered with everything else so there is less chance of any misalignment to the absolute center line,but extra steps have to be taken to prevent galling. As far as which method is best, I don't think there is any good way to tell because of the other variables that could falsifier/misdirect the results. The only thing that I have noticed is that the better the truing, the less finicky it is to different loads. Results are what counts, the method used is a personal preference based on the smiths consistent results. The Video shows the items that need to be addressed, and if another method works best for the individual action it should be used. J E CUSTOM [/QUOTE]
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Proper way to Blue print a bolt
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