Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Proper die set up
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="nvschütze" data-source="post: 1826506" data-attributes="member: 110896"><p>I do it very much like MagnumManiac in Post #4. I found I got a very slight crush fit with the dies set 0.004" <em><u>above</u></em> the shell-holder. To really feel the fit, you remove the striker assembly so that you're not fighting the firing spring to get the feel as the lugs rotate in and lock. I'd start with sizing a case at something like 0.0025" above and work up in 0.0005 increments until you can just feel the friction of the parts coming together. Mine was easy at a consistent 0.004 inches for three forming dies and a resizing die to cold-form from .375 Ruger Basic cases to loaded mildcat cases ready to prime; yours may be different. Do not let too much resistance creep into the rotation because you'll just be galling your lugs. Once you know the setting above the shell-holder, you can set the dies in just a few seconds.</p><p></p><p>The image below shows how my cases were formed from .375 Ruger Basic brass (no longer to be had from Hornady). The one to the far left is a raw case. Second to left is through the F1 forming die. Middle is through the F2 forming die. Second from right is through the F3 forming die. It had to be trimmed to its 2.494" final length because a lip in the forming die would crush the shoulder when the mouth impacted the lip. The case to the far right is the completed .300 Nevada Desert Magnum case, ready for the final steps of prep before it can be loaded. The blobs of reflected light on the shoulders are where the forming dies placed the ripples when the dies were set 0.004" above the shell-holder.</p><p></p><p>It's been so long since I've formed any cases that I cannot remember the relationship between die height and the location of the shoulder. I <em>believe</em> it's the higher the die is above the shell-holder, the higher the shoulder will be toward the mouth of the case. I'll have to think on that a bit, or have someone who can better explain it than me make it more understandable.</p><p></p><p>The .300 Nevada Desert Magnum is<em> exactly</em> what the .30-06 Springfield would be if the Springfield was built on a .532" head. You could call it the ".30-06 Springfield Magnum." I also made a .35 Whelen on a .532" head; it's so named the .358 Sierra Stomper.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="nvschütze, post: 1826506, member: 110896"] I do it very much like MagnumManiac in Post #4. I found I got a very slight crush fit with the dies set 0.004" [I][U]above[/U][/I] the shell-holder. To really feel the fit, you remove the striker assembly so that you're not fighting the firing spring to get the feel as the lugs rotate in and lock. I'd start with sizing a case at something like 0.0025" above and work up in 0.0005 increments until you can just feel the friction of the parts coming together. Mine was easy at a consistent 0.004 inches for three forming dies and a resizing die to cold-form from .375 Ruger Basic cases to loaded mildcat cases ready to prime; yours may be different. Do not let too much resistance creep into the rotation because you'll just be galling your lugs. Once you know the setting above the shell-holder, you can set the dies in just a few seconds. The image below shows how my cases were formed from .375 Ruger Basic brass (no longer to be had from Hornady). The one to the far left is a raw case. Second to left is through the F1 forming die. Middle is through the F2 forming die. Second from right is through the F3 forming die. It had to be trimmed to its 2.494" final length because a lip in the forming die would crush the shoulder when the mouth impacted the lip. The case to the far right is the completed .300 Nevada Desert Magnum case, ready for the final steps of prep before it can be loaded. The blobs of reflected light on the shoulders are where the forming dies placed the ripples when the dies were set 0.004" above the shell-holder. It's been so long since I've formed any cases that I cannot remember the relationship between die height and the location of the shoulder. I [I]believe[/I] it's the higher the die is above the shell-holder, the higher the shoulder will be toward the mouth of the case. I'll have to think on that a bit, or have someone who can better explain it than me make it more understandable. The .300 Nevada Desert Magnum is[I] exactly[/I] what the .30-06 Springfield would be if the Springfield was built on a .532" head. You could call it the ".30-06 Springfield Magnum." I also made a .35 Whelen on a .532" head; it's so named the .358 Sierra Stomper. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Proper die set up
Top