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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Primer pocket truing
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<blockquote data-quote="Alex Wheeler" data-source="post: 2644508" data-attributes="member: 101859"><p>It was a 6BRA. But I shoot more hunting rifles and elr stuff than BR. My process is exactly the same for any cartridge I load for. It's pretty basic. Like most guys I bought all the tools I could out of the sinclair catalog. At first I blindly did all of the "accuracy prep work" to my brass. I eventually got to testing each of the processes and weeded out the ones I could not see on target. Most all of these tools came from Benchrest in the days that they did not have the quality components we do today. Now you can just buy lapua brass and Berger bullets and get .25 moa without sorting or uniforming.</p><p>I always shoot new brass once. I dont do load development on new brass because it will change on fired brass. After shooting it once, I will size it in a full length bushing die, I use the wax hornady sells in the silver tin, a lot of guys use the one shot spray. After I size the case I wipe it off with a microfiber cloth to remove the wax. Trim and deburr if needed. Then I seat the primers, I use a 21st century hand tool. It is adjustable for depth, but it set it so I can feel the primer bottom out. Lately I have not even been cleaning the primer pockets. Then spin a snug nylon brush in the neck with a drill for 3 or 4 seconds. You want a drill not a slow case prep tool. Then dump powder and seat the bullets. On hunting stuff I dont do anything to the brass, for BR all I do is turn the necks. While that's a basic process it still needs to be done right. You need to have consistent shoulder bumps and consistent seating depths. I weight powder to the kernel as well. Those will definitely show on target if not. I dont clean brass or anneal it. Cleaning wont hurt, but it doesn't help. Annealing can help and it can hurt. Annealing is part of the tuning process, not all loads like that soft neck. Have been annealing for about 15 years and have not found a rifle that it improved my groups. In some cases it made them worse in others, it didn't hurt but didn't improve. I'm not against it, just dont do it blind. Test it both ways. I dont lube necks or use mandrels. In my experience I have got the best accuracy not touching the inside of the neck. Some lubes like graphite powder do ok, others like colloidal graphite have hurt my accuracy. That natural carbon layer polished with a tight nylon brush is still what I keep coming back to.</p><p>This is just my way, I have friends and customers that have far more elaborate processes that shoot just as well. I just prefer to do what matters and spend less time at the loading bench.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Alex Wheeler, post: 2644508, member: 101859"] It was a 6BRA. But I shoot more hunting rifles and elr stuff than BR. My process is exactly the same for any cartridge I load for. It's pretty basic. Like most guys I bought all the tools I could out of the sinclair catalog. At first I blindly did all of the "accuracy prep work" to my brass. I eventually got to testing each of the processes and weeded out the ones I could not see on target. Most all of these tools came from Benchrest in the days that they did not have the quality components we do today. Now you can just buy lapua brass and Berger bullets and get .25 moa without sorting or uniforming. I always shoot new brass once. I dont do load development on new brass because it will change on fired brass. After shooting it once, I will size it in a full length bushing die, I use the wax hornady sells in the silver tin, a lot of guys use the one shot spray. After I size the case I wipe it off with a microfiber cloth to remove the wax. Trim and deburr if needed. Then I seat the primers, I use a 21st century hand tool. It is adjustable for depth, but it set it so I can feel the primer bottom out. Lately I have not even been cleaning the primer pockets. Then spin a snug nylon brush in the neck with a drill for 3 or 4 seconds. You want a drill not a slow case prep tool. Then dump powder and seat the bullets. On hunting stuff I dont do anything to the brass, for BR all I do is turn the necks. While that's a basic process it still needs to be done right. You need to have consistent shoulder bumps and consistent seating depths. I weight powder to the kernel as well. Those will definitely show on target if not. I dont clean brass or anneal it. Cleaning wont hurt, but it doesn't help. Annealing can help and it can hurt. Annealing is part of the tuning process, not all loads like that soft neck. Have been annealing for about 15 years and have not found a rifle that it improved my groups. In some cases it made them worse in others, it didn't hurt but didn't improve. I'm not against it, just dont do it blind. Test it both ways. I dont lube necks or use mandrels. In my experience I have got the best accuracy not touching the inside of the neck. Some lubes like graphite powder do ok, others like colloidal graphite have hurt my accuracy. That natural carbon layer polished with a tight nylon brush is still what I keep coming back to. This is just my way, I have friends and customers that have far more elaborate processes that shoot just as well. I just prefer to do what matters and spend less time at the loading bench. [/QUOTE]
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