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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Preparations for LRH
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<blockquote data-quote="Ian M" data-source="post: 22562" data-attributes="member: 25"><p>Good questions and topic. Here goes.</p><p>a. Brass - wipe it after the shot if possible and only clean if it is really grungy and the primer pockets are still tight. Did the match prep thing, have neat tools and don't feel that I need to do that for the accuaracy I require. Don't like to burn that time on finiky stuff, more interested in loading a bunch of good ammo that shoots well in my rifles. That is why I switched to progressive presses. Need lots of ammo to shoot as much as I like to, will give up a bit of uniformity to get the loading done.</p><p>b. Again, have Oehlers and use them to develop loads but keep it simple. No time to play with a bunch of powders, primer brands etc, just use a few proven types, usually know about how much powder to start with and where to get accuracy, play with seating depth or simply load so ammo fits into mag well. I shoot a fair bit of BHA match ammo, try to get my loads close to that accuracy if possible.</p><p>c. Practice sessions are for fun. Don't want to become obsessed with this stuff, just having a great time hitting target a long way out there. Enjoy sharing this with new guys when possible. Usually shoot steel plates out to 1000 depending on location.</p><p>Shoot the positions and marksmanship stuff taught at schools, really works and gets the most out of me and my gear. Spend almost as much time as spotter to improve windcalling skills, seeing trace etc.</p><p>Prone shooting is straight behind the rifle, elbows low as possible. Makes for sore muscles and a few smacks on the collarbone but it is the best shooting position off the bench.</p><p>d. Try to clean every forty or fifty shots. Usually shoot ten rounds, then switch rifles and shooter/spotter position. Might go to twenty shots if the shooting is tough but don't like to get the barrels too hot. We record turret settings for every shot, call and hit locations. Made up a simple 8 1/2x11 paget with three columns, each column is composed of four vertical lines for elevation setting, windage setting, shot call and shot impact location, has twenty horizontal lines so each column is good for twenty shots - 60 per page. Call is usually "broke clean" so a dot is put into the middle of that box or whereever the call was made, then the bullet hit is marked. Also includes a large scale diagram to plot each bullet relative to others. Need to write down each elevation and windage setting, too easy to forget and good for reference. Also keep info as to shooter, rifle, scope, load, distance, wind, light and mirage conditions.</p><p>Also use Ballisticards to get my comeups if I don't have my data book along.</p><p>Cleaning is simple - put rifle into a cradle that is built into the plastic box. Remove bolt and put bore guide in place. Put Shooter's Choice solvent on a patch and run through bore, repeat several times till crap is mostly gone. Moisten brush with same solvent and run ten or twelve passes. Moisten brush again when it first comes out of muzzle to ensure solvent is equally dispersed. More solvent soaked patches until pretty well clean. Dry with a couple of patches. Soak two patches in Shooter's Choice Copper Solvent and run down bore. Wait ten minutes. Put standard solvent on patches and run down bore, check for green/blue and repeat until no copper signs.</p><p>While waiting for copper removal I toothbrush the bolt face, put some solvent on the brush. Then lube the lugs and camming point on the bolt. When bore is finished I clean the lug recesses, dry the chamber, wipe the muzzle and replace the bolt. Don't do the coper removal thing during most shoots unless the barrel fouls. Normally the entire process takes about 10 minutes or less, much longer if copper removal required.</p><p>Barrel cleaning is a chance for the barrel to cool a bit, time to get the hell off the ground and move around a bit.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Ian M, post: 22562, member: 25"] Good questions and topic. Here goes. a. Brass - wipe it after the shot if possible and only clean if it is really grungy and the primer pockets are still tight. Did the match prep thing, have neat tools and don't feel that I need to do that for the accuaracy I require. Don't like to burn that time on finiky stuff, more interested in loading a bunch of good ammo that shoots well in my rifles. That is why I switched to progressive presses. Need lots of ammo to shoot as much as I like to, will give up a bit of uniformity to get the loading done. b. Again, have Oehlers and use them to develop loads but keep it simple. No time to play with a bunch of powders, primer brands etc, just use a few proven types, usually know about how much powder to start with and where to get accuracy, play with seating depth or simply load so ammo fits into mag well. I shoot a fair bit of BHA match ammo, try to get my loads close to that accuracy if possible. c. Practice sessions are for fun. Don't want to become obsessed with this stuff, just having a great time hitting target a long way out there. Enjoy sharing this with new guys when possible. Usually shoot steel plates out to 1000 depending on location. Shoot the positions and marksmanship stuff taught at schools, really works and gets the most out of me and my gear. Spend almost as much time as spotter to improve windcalling skills, seeing trace etc. Prone shooting is straight behind the rifle, elbows low as possible. Makes for sore muscles and a few smacks on the collarbone but it is the best shooting position off the bench. d. Try to clean every forty or fifty shots. Usually shoot ten rounds, then switch rifles and shooter/spotter position. Might go to twenty shots if the shooting is tough but don't like to get the barrels too hot. We record turret settings for every shot, call and hit locations. Made up a simple 8 1/2x11 paget with three columns, each column is composed of four vertical lines for elevation setting, windage setting, shot call and shot impact location, has twenty horizontal lines so each column is good for twenty shots - 60 per page. Call is usually "broke clean" so a dot is put into the middle of that box or whereever the call was made, then the bullet hit is marked. Also includes a large scale diagram to plot each bullet relative to others. Need to write down each elevation and windage setting, too easy to forget and good for reference. Also keep info as to shooter, rifle, scope, load, distance, wind, light and mirage conditions. Also use Ballisticards to get my comeups if I don't have my data book along. Cleaning is simple - put rifle into a cradle that is built into the plastic box. Remove bolt and put bore guide in place. Put Shooter's Choice solvent on a patch and run through bore, repeat several times till crap is mostly gone. Moisten brush with same solvent and run ten or twelve passes. Moisten brush again when it first comes out of muzzle to ensure solvent is equally dispersed. More solvent soaked patches until pretty well clean. Dry with a couple of patches. Soak two patches in Shooter's Choice Copper Solvent and run down bore. Wait ten minutes. Put standard solvent on patches and run down bore, check for green/blue and repeat until no copper signs. While waiting for copper removal I toothbrush the bolt face, put some solvent on the brush. Then lube the lugs and camming point on the bolt. When bore is finished I clean the lug recesses, dry the chamber, wipe the muzzle and replace the bolt. Don't do the coper removal thing during most shoots unless the barrel fouls. Normally the entire process takes about 10 minutes or less, much longer if copper removal required. Barrel cleaning is a chance for the barrel to cool a bit, time to get the hell off the ground and move around a bit. [/QUOTE]
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