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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Precision reloading equipment, what do you use?
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 458109" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>I bought mine out of their catalog, and they looked like stainless steel or electroless nickeled steel. I already knew that steel and aluminum was a no no, but I guess the Sinclair bunch wasn't that smart. And really a carbide cutter is not the greatest thing to cut brass with! You'll always get a better job out of high speed steel. The cutter I now use is made from a broken Hi-Roc drill ground to my spec. It cuts 100% better, but still ain't nothing to write home about. You can rebuild the basic unit and make it work very good, but why should a guy have to? The deal with the cutter freezing up is a good reason alone to look else where, and both of mine did it (I have the one with the dial indicator and the one without it). Their indicator is cheap junk by the way, and suggest buying it without an indicator. Then purchase a half way decient one else where (too much backlash in the stem).</p><p>I made my own mandrels, and they do work very well. Later I saw the samething in a catalog of machine fixture locators. But once again the K&M is that much better with the doughnut cutter built into the mandrel. </p><p> </p><p>If you have access to a Bridgeport, you man make one in a couple hours that will be mucho better in quality. I mean a kid in highschool shop class would have little trouble getting it right as it's that simple. Just make it out of generic 1020 steel, and 70% of the problems will be gone. Set it up to use the K&M arbor, and your own cutter ground for a 50 degree included angle that has a .03 radius on the point (this will clear all shoulders very well, and the .03 radius will get you close enough to most any case design except for a Weatherby). You could make the cutter out of a screw machine drill bit (it has the needed flt on it for the set screw). Nothing here is rocket science except the cost they charge</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 458109, member: 25383"] I bought mine out of their catalog, and they looked like stainless steel or electroless nickeled steel. I already knew that steel and aluminum was a no no, but I guess the Sinclair bunch wasn't that smart. And really a carbide cutter is not the greatest thing to cut brass with! You'll always get a better job out of high speed steel. The cutter I now use is made from a broken Hi-Roc drill ground to my spec. It cuts 100% better, but still ain't nothing to write home about. You can rebuild the basic unit and make it work very good, but why should a guy have to? The deal with the cutter freezing up is a good reason alone to look else where, and both of mine did it (I have the one with the dial indicator and the one without it). Their indicator is cheap junk by the way, and suggest buying it without an indicator. Then purchase a half way decient one else where (too much backlash in the stem). I made my own mandrels, and they do work very well. Later I saw the samething in a catalog of machine fixture locators. But once again the K&M is that much better with the doughnut cutter built into the mandrel. If you have access to a Bridgeport, you man make one in a couple hours that will be mucho better in quality. I mean a kid in highschool shop class would have little trouble getting it right as it's that simple. Just make it out of generic 1020 steel, and 70% of the problems will be gone. Set it up to use the K&M arbor, and your own cutter ground for a 50 degree included angle that has a .03 radius on the point (this will clear all shoulders very well, and the .03 radius will get you close enough to most any case design except for a Weatherby). You could make the cutter out of a screw machine drill bit (it has the needed flt on it for the set screw). Nothing here is rocket science except the cost they charge gary [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Precision reloading equipment, what do you use?
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