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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Pics of my first annealling attmept
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<blockquote data-quote="specweldtom" data-source="post: 216579" data-attributes="member: 2580"><p>Setup looks good to me, but you need to quench the cases immediately. </p><p>Shake them out of the socket into a pan of water. The fast quench will not harden them at all, but it will stop the heat from creeping down the case. Someone mentioned not getting the base of the cartridge hot. They are correct. If the base is softened, it will flow and maybe rupture when fired. The base and body are intentionally left work-hardened when they are made because that part of the case needs the higher strength. The neck and shoulder don't. </p><p></p><p>I used to fire .308 match brass (in a match rifle) until they wouldn't hold a primer. I was full-length resizing, so I annealed after 3-4 firings. I set them upright in an aluminum baking pan, about 50 at a time, in water just below the shoulder. Heated them with a propane torch until they looked like yours do, and then immediately tapped the heated case over into the water with the side of the torch head. You don't have to do that, but I think it helps make them uniform and grip the bullet more consistently. It also instantly stops the oxidation. </p><p></p><p>I very much like the setup you have for rotating them while heating, but you might try my method for comparison. Whatever you settle on, I recommend you quench them immediately.</p><p></p><p>Good shooting, Tom</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="specweldtom, post: 216579, member: 2580"] Setup looks good to me, but you need to quench the cases immediately. Shake them out of the socket into a pan of water. The fast quench will not harden them at all, but it will stop the heat from creeping down the case. Someone mentioned not getting the base of the cartridge hot. They are correct. If the base is softened, it will flow and maybe rupture when fired. The base and body are intentionally left work-hardened when they are made because that part of the case needs the higher strength. The neck and shoulder don't. I used to fire .308 match brass (in a match rifle) until they wouldn't hold a primer. I was full-length resizing, so I annealed after 3-4 firings. I set them upright in an aluminum baking pan, about 50 at a time, in water just below the shoulder. Heated them with a propane torch until they looked like yours do, and then immediately tapped the heated case over into the water with the side of the torch head. You don't have to do that, but I think it helps make them uniform and grip the bullet more consistently. It also instantly stops the oxidation. I very much like the setup you have for rotating them while heating, but you might try my method for comparison. Whatever you settle on, I recommend you quench them immediately. Good shooting, Tom [/QUOTE]
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Reloading
Pics of my first annealling attmept
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