Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
7mm STW
Peterson Brass Belted Mag Basic Unprimed Box of 50
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="SWHandldr" data-source="post: 2619510" data-attributes="member: 114858"><p>A deep socket spun in an electric drill and a propane torch ain't fancy but it works.</p><p></p><p>Annealing is highly likely to improve the success rate of case forming, measured in case life and fewer lost to early splits. You don't have to be perfect, just 'good enough.'</p><p></p><ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Start spinning the case and aim the inner, lighter blue part of the flame just below the shoulder / body junction.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Heat until the part in the flame begins to glow a dull red. Anneal in a mostly dark room so you can see this.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">When the glow begins, dump the case into a catch pan. An disposable aluminum baking pan works. Water isn't required, the case cools quickly and unlike steel, quenching has zero effect on how the brass turns out.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">No need to over do it though the time and temp range is relatively broad. Getting a dull (not bright red) glow indicates you're softening the brass.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Reaching that dull red glow should take 3-6 seconds. That's slow enough to be controllable. If it happens in 1-2 seconds, try turning the flame down some or holding the case further out of the flame.</li> </ol><p>The number of cases you lose to trial and error will almost certainly be less than the number lost to early splits caused by the combined stress of un-annealed forming + firing.</p><p></p><p>I built an induction annealer for under $200 but it's powerful (heats quickly) so a learning curve is involved. IME, flame annealing is a) proven and b) controllable. A ton of different experiences, information and misinformation is on the Interwebs. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPxCVYPhZrU" target="_blank"><strong>This guy</strong></a> [<LINK to 'Reese on the Range'] is a metallurgical engineer and a shooter, has a series of vids on annealing. Of all the stuff I've seen he has the most sensible approach and info.</p><p></p><p>EDIT: My induction annealer is based on the one by North East Texas Tactical on YT. The vids are <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLRgDZeYQ-M&t=82s" target="_blank"><strong>here</strong></a> and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkqN4iA0NjM" target="_blank"><strong>here</strong></a>. I put the handheld induction unit in an enclosure with an extra cooling fan & mounted the timer on the box. The 2d vid shows how to size and wind heating coils from #10 or 12 copper wire for different size cases.</p><p></p><p>Scored a returned induction unit on Amazon for $135 so my total cost is well under $200. <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/Solary-Magnetic-Induction-Automotive-Flameless/dp/B0851C6Q22/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=induction+heater+bolt+removal&qid=1663331214&sprefix=induction+heater%2Caps%2C96&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A3BIS2KX0GYGM" target="_blank"><strong>A new one</strong></a>, timer, fan,</p><p>external switch, box & paint should be $235 or less. </p><p></p><p>Apologies for the thread hijack.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SWHandldr, post: 2619510, member: 114858"] A deep socket spun in an electric drill and a propane torch ain't fancy but it works. Annealing is highly likely to improve the success rate of case forming, measured in case life and fewer lost to early splits. You don't have to be perfect, just 'good enough.' [LIST=1] [*]Start spinning the case and aim the inner, lighter blue part of the flame just below the shoulder / body junction. [*]Heat until the part in the flame begins to glow a dull red. Anneal in a mostly dark room so you can see this. [*]When the glow begins, dump the case into a catch pan. An disposable aluminum baking pan works. Water isn't required, the case cools quickly and unlike steel, quenching has zero effect on how the brass turns out. [*]No need to over do it though the time and temp range is relatively broad. Getting a dull (not bright red) glow indicates you're softening the brass. [*]Reaching that dull red glow should take 3-6 seconds. That's slow enough to be controllable. If it happens in 1-2 seconds, try turning the flame down some or holding the case further out of the flame. [/LIST] The number of cases you lose to trial and error will almost certainly be less than the number lost to early splits caused by the combined stress of un-annealed forming + firing. I built an induction annealer for under $200 but it's powerful (heats quickly) so a learning curve is involved. IME, flame annealing is a) proven and b) controllable. A ton of different experiences, information and misinformation is on the Interwebs. [URL='https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPxCVYPhZrU'][B]This guy[/B][/URL] [<LINK to 'Reese on the Range'] is a metallurgical engineer and a shooter, has a series of vids on annealing. Of all the stuff I've seen he has the most sensible approach and info. EDIT: My induction annealer is based on the one by North East Texas Tactical on YT. The vids are [URL='https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLRgDZeYQ-M&t=82s'][B]here[/B][/URL] and [URL='https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkqN4iA0NjM'][B]here[/B][/URL]. I put the handheld induction unit in an enclosure with an extra cooling fan & mounted the timer on the box. The 2d vid shows how to size and wind heating coils from #10 or 12 copper wire for different size cases. Scored a returned induction unit on Amazon for $135 so my total cost is well under $200. [URL='https://smile.amazon.com/Solary-Magnetic-Induction-Automotive-Flameless/dp/B0851C6Q22/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=induction+heater+bolt+removal&qid=1663331214&sprefix=induction+heater%2Caps%2C96&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A3BIS2KX0GYGM'][B]A new one[/B][/URL], timer, fan, external switch, box & paint should be $235 or less. Apologies for the thread hijack. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
7mm STW
Peterson Brass Belted Mag Basic Unprimed Box of 50
Top