Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Out of the box Accuracy.
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 514983" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>I have a remington in .223 that I should have simply placed it back in the box, and returned it to remington. But no not hard headed me! The barrel was so rough that it tore up patches, and had tight spots and losse spots. Following instructions from the Borden Gang, I plotted the barrel to find out what was going on. It appeared that the last three inches or so was junk, and the first inch was not anybetter. Did have access to a Hawkeye scope, and I must say that remington did a very good job at maintaining that same "100" micro all the way thru the bore! I was getting around 4.25" groups on a good day! Guys I know that shoot benchrest said there was no remington that bad, and took it home with them. About a week later they call me up asking what I did to get 4.25" groups? They were much closer to 5". Doug and I pull the barrel, and do a chamber cast. Figured we done something wrong I did two more for a total of three casts. Remington cut the chamber at roughly a 7 degree angle to the rifeling, and the throat was also about seven or eight thousandths off center. That's when I should have stopped and sent it back, but it got worse. With the barrel out of the action, I could see a very largte burr that the bolt was seating on instead of the reciever! About .062" worth of burr. Surprisingly the threads were fairly square, but had taper in them as well as being a few thousandths off center. I figured the bolt face was junk, but was well within .0005". Took the reciever to work and stayed over one night, and cleaned it up. Cut a new barrel thread that ended up being about .015" oversize. I then made a mandrel to just barely fit the threads. Next night I set it up in a #13 grinder, and squared it all up to the mandrel (about .0005" in 10"). Then recut the bolt seating area and the shoulder. While I was doing all this, Doug installed an M16 extractor on the bolt. Doug was going to cut the barrel in a chop saw, and I bout died! Saw it! Cut about 2" off the big end of the barrel, and about 3.5" off the muzzel end. Then Ferris loaned us a N.M. reamer (boy do I miss that old man). Instead of taking the barrel to work, and doing it on my Monarch EE, we did it on Doug's lathe which I personally squared up for him. I used raw Trim for coolant that was simply brushed on the reamer everytime I pulled it out of the bore. Finish came out a very nice satin silver color with what was close to a single digit micro. Then I discovered that Doug didn't have a steady rest! Made a device to hold the big end of the barrel at the rear of the headstock, and simply recut the muzzle off the chuck. I then lapped the crown after cutting with a series of lapping compounds that went down to 7a. When we finally got done I looked on the shelf and saw an 8" Buck chuck! It had no adapter plate, and somebody gave to to him. Felt like an idiot!! I then lapped the barrel bore with 5a compound and a little elbow grease, but stayed away from the last three inches of the barrel.</p><p> </p><p>I did some bedding block mods as well, but nothing too serious. When the trigger functioned right the gun started out shooting 3/4" groups, using the same handloads (55gr. Vmax moly coated bullet over BLC2). Three triggers later and about a hundred fifty rounds the gun shoots solid fours at 3270fps. Looks like a .225BC is about right for the barrel. The scope mounts need to be reworked again, and I'd like to install a 4x-16x scope instead of the 32x it has right now. Barrel still fouls after 25 rounds (copper), but the gun has a near perfect balance for off hand shooting.</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 514983, member: 25383"] I have a remington in .223 that I should have simply placed it back in the box, and returned it to remington. But no not hard headed me! The barrel was so rough that it tore up patches, and had tight spots and losse spots. Following instructions from the Borden Gang, I plotted the barrel to find out what was going on. It appeared that the last three inches or so was junk, and the first inch was not anybetter. Did have access to a Hawkeye scope, and I must say that remington did a very good job at maintaining that same "100" micro all the way thru the bore! I was getting around 4.25" groups on a good day! Guys I know that shoot benchrest said there was no remington that bad, and took it home with them. About a week later they call me up asking what I did to get 4.25" groups? They were much closer to 5". Doug and I pull the barrel, and do a chamber cast. Figured we done something wrong I did two more for a total of three casts. Remington cut the chamber at roughly a 7 degree angle to the rifeling, and the throat was also about seven or eight thousandths off center. That's when I should have stopped and sent it back, but it got worse. With the barrel out of the action, I could see a very largte burr that the bolt was seating on instead of the reciever! About .062" worth of burr. Surprisingly the threads were fairly square, but had taper in them as well as being a few thousandths off center. I figured the bolt face was junk, but was well within .0005". Took the reciever to work and stayed over one night, and cleaned it up. Cut a new barrel thread that ended up being about .015" oversize. I then made a mandrel to just barely fit the threads. Next night I set it up in a #13 grinder, and squared it all up to the mandrel (about .0005" in 10"). Then recut the bolt seating area and the shoulder. While I was doing all this, Doug installed an M16 extractor on the bolt. Doug was going to cut the barrel in a chop saw, and I bout died! Saw it! Cut about 2" off the big end of the barrel, and about 3.5" off the muzzel end. Then Ferris loaned us a N.M. reamer (boy do I miss that old man). Instead of taking the barrel to work, and doing it on my Monarch EE, we did it on Doug's lathe which I personally squared up for him. I used raw Trim for coolant that was simply brushed on the reamer everytime I pulled it out of the bore. Finish came out a very nice satin silver color with what was close to a single digit micro. Then I discovered that Doug didn't have a steady rest! Made a device to hold the big end of the barrel at the rear of the headstock, and simply recut the muzzle off the chuck. I then lapped the crown after cutting with a series of lapping compounds that went down to 7a. When we finally got done I looked on the shelf and saw an 8" Buck chuck! It had no adapter plate, and somebody gave to to him. Felt like an idiot!! I then lapped the barrel bore with 5a compound and a little elbow grease, but stayed away from the last three inches of the barrel. I did some bedding block mods as well, but nothing too serious. When the trigger functioned right the gun started out shooting 3/4" groups, using the same handloads (55gr. Vmax moly coated bullet over BLC2). Three triggers later and about a hundred fifty rounds the gun shoots solid fours at 3270fps. Looks like a .225BC is about right for the barrel. The scope mounts need to be reworked again, and I'd like to install a 4x-16x scope instead of the 32x it has right now. Barrel still fouls after 25 rounds (copper), but the gun has a near perfect balance for off hand shooting. gary [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Out of the box Accuracy.
Top