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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Options for opening up barrel channel?
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<blockquote data-quote="VinceMule" data-source="post: 3029403" data-attributes="member: 122164"><p>Slow option is a 3" 1/2" Drive socket or wooden dowel. I gave all my scrapers away, don't have the patience for them.</p><p></p><p>Fast option is a Barrel drum sander on a 12" Drill bit extender, use a 1/2" adjustable speed drill with the speed control wheel on the trigger. The drills with the speed control that goes faster the further you depress the trigger are more difficult to use as they cut too quickly. You will need a way to hold the stock.</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/144387224737?hash=item219e2634a1:g<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite7" alt=":p" title="Stick Out Tongue :p" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":p" />FAAAOSwEWxhk4y-&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0GwQVeYWD%2BrwJqTr1WLBmo45PfkEbKG36bDpnZT%2FfIREym6VOXymeiQLIJojz3IzNJ6nnxFjzC7S%2FVtl3gnjS3if98DitSv5DcPkuTLbw5XoCe2XaoDvPP4xXFtyZ3F49WDSH0477zNHdIBLoaTkfHb%2Fn17vOkzlkNXsSS7Rbg951Gw7rrb2tZu1aEo9FDjiBxI0k9%2Bl0qiUUU%2BnT8%2FGtTsG5MCWFts0g2q9qsrHB7%2Bg4W4xuubloPmHEFh8vnYYEewLW%2Fhr7J0QVpLBbGAz2o0%3D%7Ctkp%3ABlBMUMC34eixYw[/URL]</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/335230708834?hash=item4e0d4eac62:g:OEsAAOSwEFZltZRz&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8Hx9USqfKgsBlawqA1ttbvunB9NRdY9WiL3DftsZAfAZLDDPTY%2BajxntVs9bqbHc19xFhwLmZXJYjSMG28pvsTBQbrhBg248ha882Q6l1ODSmIcjmvLomtwOKE3%2FvSevyBw8J%2B9VsoMxU82%2FMpN4y81dsRmLgQ%2B6%2B77bWRRHFM0d5QJESqsMflmjbtgDF1zmAqmpRfWvBAde57j961wUzErR9YrmC3QDMFVa8da8dD7c5%2BgCCtEMFF32NUeFA%2BhljUOVSav6%2FnNouBnV7cxXWj%2Bteu5t0Tu3GMAOHZ9%2Fc%2FOqWSYKeYoXBVhOfLi5t2K6LQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMrPTz6LFj[/URL]</p><p></p><p>I use a rifle vise and put a 25 lb bag of bird shot on the back end, which makes for a stable working platform. Go slow and easy. Use 2 layers of white masking tape on the top of the forearm, lay your barrel on top of the forearm, and trace the barrel outline on the tape. Work slowly and deliberately. The drum sander will want to climb up and out over the edge of the barrel channel. So use reverse rotation on the drum to alleviate the Drum wanting to climb out of the barrel channel. You will have to reverse the rotation from the left to the right side, and vice a versa. 60 grit works best. You can get 3" long barrel drums at work working specialty shops. On wood stocks, be sure and seal the barrel channel with polyurethane.</p><p></p><p>If you have a drill press and a mill vise attachment, you can use Round bottom router bits.</p><p></p><p>There is a learning curve to any method, it may help if you have a junker stock or two to practice on.</p><p></p><p>There are different opinions on how much clearance to strive for. Regarding the old dollar bill clearance, I am not in favor of having so little clearance due to "barrel slap" during recoil. My preference is two business card clearances Which also allow for some Air circulation around the barrel for cooling. Stocks can warp a little during wet seasons, the extra clearance is insurance for the barrel to stay freefloated.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="VinceMule, post: 3029403, member: 122164"] Slow option is a 3" 1/2" Drive socket or wooden dowel. I gave all my scrapers away, don't have the patience for them. Fast option is a Barrel drum sander on a 12" Drill bit extender, use a 1/2" adjustable speed drill with the speed control wheel on the trigger. The drills with the speed control that goes faster the further you depress the trigger are more difficult to use as they cut too quickly. You will need a way to hold the stock. [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/144387224737?hash=item219e2634a1:g:pFAAAOSwEWxhk4y-&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0GwQVeYWD%2BrwJqTr1WLBmo45PfkEbKG36bDpnZT%2FfIREym6VOXymeiQLIJojz3IzNJ6nnxFjzC7S%2FVtl3gnjS3if98DitSv5DcPkuTLbw5XoCe2XaoDvPP4xXFtyZ3F49WDSH0477zNHdIBLoaTkfHb%2Fn17vOkzlkNXsSS7Rbg951Gw7rrb2tZu1aEo9FDjiBxI0k9%2Bl0qiUUU%2BnT8%2FGtTsG5MCWFts0g2q9qsrHB7%2Bg4W4xuubloPmHEFh8vnYYEewLW%2Fhr7J0QVpLBbGAz2o0%3D%7Ctkp%3ABlBMUMC34eixYw[/URL] [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/335230708834?hash=item4e0d4eac62:g:OEsAAOSwEFZltZRz&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8Hx9USqfKgsBlawqA1ttbvunB9NRdY9WiL3DftsZAfAZLDDPTY%2BajxntVs9bqbHc19xFhwLmZXJYjSMG28pvsTBQbrhBg248ha882Q6l1ODSmIcjmvLomtwOKE3%2FvSevyBw8J%2B9VsoMxU82%2FMpN4y81dsRmLgQ%2B6%2B77bWRRHFM0d5QJESqsMflmjbtgDF1zmAqmpRfWvBAde57j961wUzErR9YrmC3QDMFVa8da8dD7c5%2BgCCtEMFF32NUeFA%2BhljUOVSav6%2FnNouBnV7cxXWj%2Bteu5t0Tu3GMAOHZ9%2Fc%2FOqWSYKeYoXBVhOfLi5t2K6LQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMrPTz6LFj[/URL] I use a rifle vise and put a 25 lb bag of bird shot on the back end, which makes for a stable working platform. Go slow and easy. Use 2 layers of white masking tape on the top of the forearm, lay your barrel on top of the forearm, and trace the barrel outline on the tape. Work slowly and deliberately. The drum sander will want to climb up and out over the edge of the barrel channel. So use reverse rotation on the drum to alleviate the Drum wanting to climb out of the barrel channel. You will have to reverse the rotation from the left to the right side, and vice a versa. 60 grit works best. You can get 3" long barrel drums at work working specialty shops. On wood stocks, be sure and seal the barrel channel with polyurethane. If you have a drill press and a mill vise attachment, you can use Round bottom router bits. There is a learning curve to any method, it may help if you have a junker stock or two to practice on. There are different opinions on how much clearance to strive for. Regarding the old dollar bill clearance, I am not in favor of having so little clearance due to "barrel slap" during recoil. My preference is two business card clearances Which also allow for some Air circulation around the barrel for cooling. Stocks can warp a little during wet seasons, the extra clearance is insurance for the barrel to stay freefloated. [/QUOTE]
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Options for opening up barrel channel?
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