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OK Just got the safe...Now another question
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<blockquote data-quote="4ked Horn" data-source="post: 65940" data-attributes="member: 11"><p>Lab, it does depend on the normal humidity in your area. In Boise I wouldn't reccomend either. I bought a large silica gel canister for my safe and it seemed dang near every time I checked it it needed to be reset in the oven. So I quit using it and just make sure my guns are dry before I put them away. I also give them a light light oil rubdown once in a great while (maybe once a year on the guns I don't use alot) and everything stays just fine. If your neck of the woods is a bit more humid than my area I would use only the goldenrod.</p><p></p><p>Why only the goldenrod you may ask?</p><p></p><p>Well let me tell you something about fire rated gunsafes. I'm assuming that is what you have.</p><p></p><p>The sheetrock type material lining your safe is NOT there for the insulation. It IS there to chemicaly hold water in suspension. When that material gets hot it starts to sweat more than Rosanne Barr looking in a donught shop window on the fourth of July. From this water steam is formed. Another thing that happens is the little grey foam "weather stripping" (called an entumesent seal (as in "entomb")) around your door (some safes have a rope like seal on the door instead) will expand to 8 times it's normal size and will become very resistant to any other heat.</p><p></p><p>Why?</p><p></p><p>Well it is a law of physics that a chamber (like your safe) that has 100% humidity WILL NOT RISE ABOVE 212 DEGREES as long as the pressure is not great. The moisture in the sheetrock stuff is there to make your safe a sauna so it wont reach the point at which paper chars (451 deg I believe). </p><p></p><p>If you use a silica gel pack to try to remove all the moisture you will never win. You cant. If you need to keep the humidity in your area in check buy one and try it but that wont last long. A golden rod will keep the air moving (It dosent dry the air out as many think) so there is no (less) chance for moisture build up and to help a gun put away cold and / or wet to dry more quickly.</p><p></p><p>Now what happens if your safe is in a fire? </p><p></p><p>Everything inside will be soaking wet unless the fire lasts soooo long that the moisture depletes to the point of drying out again. All your photos and legal papers and non water proof scopes and your computers detatchable hard drive backup will need to be stored in zip lock bags or be insured or something. But they will almost always be recoverable to some extent and will be in better shape than if they were not in the safe during the fire.</p><p></p><p>Now I hope that is good info for you.</p><p></p><p>If you want to know how Underwriters Labratory UL tests a safe to approve a fire rating let me know and I will tell you. It is tougher than you might think.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="4ked Horn, post: 65940, member: 11"] Lab, it does depend on the normal humidity in your area. In Boise I wouldn't reccomend either. I bought a large silica gel canister for my safe and it seemed dang near every time I checked it it needed to be reset in the oven. So I quit using it and just make sure my guns are dry before I put them away. I also give them a light light oil rubdown once in a great while (maybe once a year on the guns I don't use alot) and everything stays just fine. If your neck of the woods is a bit more humid than my area I would use only the goldenrod. Why only the goldenrod you may ask? Well let me tell you something about fire rated gunsafes. I'm assuming that is what you have. The sheetrock type material lining your safe is NOT there for the insulation. It IS there to chemicaly hold water in suspension. When that material gets hot it starts to sweat more than Rosanne Barr looking in a donught shop window on the fourth of July. From this water steam is formed. Another thing that happens is the little grey foam "weather stripping" (called an entumesent seal (as in "entomb")) around your door (some safes have a rope like seal on the door instead) will expand to 8 times it's normal size and will become very resistant to any other heat. Why? Well it is a law of physics that a chamber (like your safe) that has 100% humidity WILL NOT RISE ABOVE 212 DEGREES as long as the pressure is not great. The moisture in the sheetrock stuff is there to make your safe a sauna so it wont reach the point at which paper chars (451 deg I believe). If you use a silica gel pack to try to remove all the moisture you will never win. You cant. If you need to keep the humidity in your area in check buy one and try it but that wont last long. A golden rod will keep the air moving (It dosent dry the air out as many think) so there is no (less) chance for moisture build up and to help a gun put away cold and / or wet to dry more quickly. Now what happens if your safe is in a fire? Everything inside will be soaking wet unless the fire lasts soooo long that the moisture depletes to the point of drying out again. All your photos and legal papers and non water proof scopes and your computers detatchable hard drive backup will need to be stored in zip lock bags or be insured or something. But they will almost always be recoverable to some extent and will be in better shape than if they were not in the safe during the fire. Now I hope that is good info for you. If you want to know how Underwriters Labratory UL tests a safe to approve a fire rating let me know and I will tell you. It is tougher than you might think. [/QUOTE]
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