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<blockquote data-quote="memtb" data-source="post: 1949437" data-attributes="member: 75451"><p>I am blessed with a 300 yard range which made it easy to get my scopes with the "hash marks" for varying ranges. I merely used my 300 yard line in the scope and zero'd that line at 300. You could do similar, using your 100 yard range...though, you will have some error!</p><p></p><p> If you know the BC for your bullet, and can chronograph your velocities, developed a drop chart, using these factors. Determine how many inches high at 100 yards you would be, using your 300 yard "hash - mark" for 100 yard shots. Then using your 300 yard "hash - mark" at 100 yards, and adjust your group to be low (x number of inches) at 100 yards. This should get you close at 100 yards, using your primary cross hair! Theoretically your 300 should be "spot on"! You just have to be willing to accept some error at.....100, 200, 400, etc. </p><p></p><p> I've done this using a similar scope system. I zero at 300 yards with the 300 yard "hash-mark".....and accept the fact I will not be perfect at other ranges. This may not work flawlessly for prairie dogs ....but, should work for big game! </p><p></p><p> I hope that this was understandable! It's a rather confusing way to get you on target at longer ranges.....using your 100 yard range with the "hash- marks" built into your scope! memtb</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="memtb, post: 1949437, member: 75451"] I am blessed with a 300 yard range which made it easy to get my scopes with the “hash marks” for varying ranges. I merely used my 300 yard line in the scope and zero’d that line at 300. You could do similar, using your 100 yard range...though, you will have some error! If you know the BC for your bullet, and can chronograph your velocities, developed a drop chart, using these factors. Determine how many inches high at 100 yards you would be, using your 300 yard “hash - mark” for 100 yard shots. Then using your 300 yard “hash - mark” at 100 yards, and adjust your group to be low (x number of inches) at 100 yards. This should get you close at 100 yards, using your primary cross hair! Theoretically your 300 should be “spot on”! You just have to be willing to accept some error at.....100, 200, 400, etc. I’ve done this using a similar scope system. I zero at 300 yards with the 300 yard “hash-mark”.....and accept the fact I will not be perfect at other ranges. This may not work flawlessly for prairie dogs ....but, should work for big game! I hope that this was understandable! It’s a rather confusing way to get you on target at longer ranges.....using your 100 yard range with the “hash- marks” built into your scope! memtb [/QUOTE]
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