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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
NOT SIZING FAR ENOUGH!
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<blockquote data-quote="tylerw02" data-source="post: 2005610" data-attributes="member: 113012"><p>Cover your brass in blue layout dye or sharpie and run it into the die. It should provide a clear picture of where it is not being sized. Also use your micrometer to measure critical areas of the brass against the reamer diagram which your chamber was cut with.</p><p></p><p>Odds are the brass was fired I a wildcat or out of spec chamber. </p><p></p><p>Rarely is the problem not sizing the shoulder back far enough, but it's possible. Have you measured it against brass fired in your chamber? I'd wager these tips will reveal the issue.</p><p></p><p>If it is the die not bumping the shoulder back far enough, you may ruin the brass anyway. The tip to take down the shell holder is a good one, but I'd only do so if the brass was fired in your gun...and only to bump back 0.002" or so. Personally, I advocate for using the large flat of a sharpening stone rather than a belt sander.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tylerw02, post: 2005610, member: 113012"] Cover your brass in blue layout dye or sharpie and run it into the die. It should provide a clear picture of where it is not being sized. Also use your micrometer to measure critical areas of the brass against the reamer diagram which your chamber was cut with. Odds are the brass was fired I a wildcat or out of spec chamber. Rarely is the problem not sizing the shoulder back far enough, but it’s possible. Have you measured it against brass fired in your chamber? I’d wager these tips will reveal the issue. If it is the die not bumping the shoulder back far enough, you may ruin the brass anyway. The tip to take down the shell holder is a good one, but I’d only do so if the brass was fired in your gun...and only to bump back 0.002” or so. Personally, I advocate for using the large flat of a sharpening stone rather than a belt sander. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
NOT SIZING FAR ENOUGH!
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