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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Nickle Plated Brass???
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<blockquote data-quote="Lefty7mmstw" data-source="post: 1159857" data-attributes="member: 48043"><p>I use nickel brass in a few chamberings. Size them rather "wet" with lube but not so much near the shoulder as to dent the dang thing. You may see neck splits on nickel brass if it sits with a bullet in it if work hardened; I've had this a bit with my 338 and fed nickel brass. You may also have to run up the load again if it was developed in brass as the neck tension will likely be a bit higher with nickel plated. </p><p></p><p>Flip, as to nickel plated straight wall, I'd use carbide and lube lightly to size after cleaning in walnut. I've shot thousands of rounds of 44, 357 and 9mm in nickel plated and they have not been much different than regular brass. Possibly even easier to clean as powder fouling can sometimes be wiped off with a rough cloth omitting tumbling. Take it easy on belling the mouth to keep nickel flaking to a minimum.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lefty7mmstw, post: 1159857, member: 48043"] I use nickel brass in a few chamberings. Size them rather "wet" with lube but not so much near the shoulder as to dent the dang thing. You may see neck splits on nickel brass if it sits with a bullet in it if work hardened; I've had this a bit with my 338 and fed nickel brass. You may also have to run up the load again if it was developed in brass as the neck tension will likely be a bit higher with nickel plated. Flip, as to nickel plated straight wall, I'd use carbide and lube lightly to size after cleaning in walnut. I've shot thousands of rounds of 44, 357 and 9mm in nickel plated and they have not been much different than regular brass. Possibly even easier to clean as powder fouling can sometimes be wiped off with a rough cloth omitting tumbling. Take it easy on belling the mouth to keep nickel flaking to a minimum. [/QUOTE]
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Nickle Plated Brass???
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