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NF 20moa base
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<blockquote data-quote="Broz" data-source="post: 407726" data-attributes="member: 7503"><p>Mr Eaglet, I do not use release agent anymore on the base. I do however on the screws. I , like Sendero man, use JB weld. I use the quick set (15 min) I use johnsons floor wax on the threads. Apply a thin coat of JB and fully but evenly tighten it down. I then clean the excess off with a small piece of wood ( tooth pic or wood match) and wipe with a rag and carb cleaner to get a perfect clean line at the mating surfaces. After a few hours or the next day I retorque the screws. I have found it is not a huge deal to clean up the parts after a removal. I have one of those rust remover pads sold especially for removing rust from a rifle. (silver and looks like a pot scrubber) These thing are cool, then will not scratch the bluing, but will remove the epoxy with the aid of a little carb cleaner. I like the idea of the base being glued into place. This process may not work for everyone but I like it.</p><p> </p><p>Jeff</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Broz, post: 407726, member: 7503"] Mr Eaglet, I do not use release agent anymore on the base. I do however on the screws. I , like Sendero man, use JB weld. I use the quick set (15 min) I use johnsons floor wax on the threads. Apply a thin coat of JB and fully but evenly tighten it down. I then clean the excess off with a small piece of wood ( tooth pic or wood match) and wipe with a rag and carb cleaner to get a perfect clean line at the mating surfaces. After a few hours or the next day I retorque the screws. I have found it is not a huge deal to clean up the parts after a removal. I have one of those rust remover pads sold especially for removing rust from a rifle. (silver and looks like a pot scrubber) These thing are cool, then will not scratch the bluing, but will remove the epoxy with the aid of a little carb cleaner. I like the idea of the base being glued into place. This process may not work for everyone but I like it. Jeff [/QUOTE]
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