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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Newbie Needs Help Sizing!
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<blockquote data-quote="Kevin Thomas" data-source="post: 449186" data-attributes="member: 15748"><p>If you've got a set of bump gages such as the Lock-n-load from Hornady, let that tell you when you need to adjust. You should be able to set the die once, lock the ring and not worry about setting it again. However, that assumes (never a good idea) a whole lot. The exact same cases, the same brand (at the very least), the same amount of lube, correctly applied for each reloading, reasonably mild loads that aren't stressing anything too badly, and that the brass has only been fired in your rifle. More here, but you get the idea. I would check it with the gage and just assume that you'll have to do some adjustment. If the gage says no, you're ahead of the curve. If it says to adjust, adjust as needed.</p><p> </p><p>New brass should be resized, but the primary reason for doing so is to round out potentially dented case mouths (yeah, it happens) and to even up neck tension throughout a virgin lot of cases. It shouldn't result in any movement of the shoulder or changes in the HS dimensions. For this initial sizing, I'd probably back the die off a half turn or so, and make sure you're not bumping the should. You probably won't be able to anyway, but why take the chance?</p><p> </p><p>For once fired brass, I'd consider purchasing a separate die; a small base die. These set the brass back much closer to their unfired dimensions than do standard full length dies, which may be useful if using brass from dubious sources. Since you're loading 308s, if you wind up using military brass, these may be a necessity anyway. Good for resizing brass that's been used in M14s or military bolt guns, but even with these, brass coming from MGs (M60s, M240s, etc) aren't worth the effort. </p><p> </p><p>Hope that helps, and welcome to the hobby!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Kevin Thomas, post: 449186, member: 15748"] If you've got a set of bump gages such as the Lock-n-load from Hornady, let that tell you when you need to adjust. You should be able to set the die once, lock the ring and not worry about setting it again. However, that assumes (never a good idea) a whole lot. The exact same cases, the same brand (at the very least), the same amount of lube, correctly applied for each reloading, reasonably mild loads that aren't stressing anything too badly, and that the brass has only been fired in your rifle. More here, but you get the idea. I would check it with the gage and just assume that you'll have to do some adjustment. If the gage says no, you're ahead of the curve. If it says to adjust, adjust as needed. New brass should be resized, but the primary reason for doing so is to round out potentially dented case mouths (yeah, it happens) and to even up neck tension throughout a virgin lot of cases. It shouldn't result in any movement of the shoulder or changes in the HS dimensions. For this initial sizing, I'd probably back the die off a half turn or so, and make sure you're not bumping the should. You probably won't be able to anyway, but why take the chance? For once fired brass, I'd consider purchasing a separate die; a small base die. These set the brass back much closer to their unfired dimensions than do standard full length dies, which may be useful if using brass from dubious sources. Since you're loading 308s, if you wind up using military brass, these may be a necessity anyway. Good for resizing brass that's been used in M14s or military bolt guns, but even with these, brass coming from MGs (M60s, M240s, etc) aren't worth the effort. Hope that helps, and welcome to the hobby! [/QUOTE]
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