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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
7mm STW
New rifle and problem
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<blockquote data-quote="MudRunner2005" data-source="post: 927862" data-attributes="member: 12995"><p>A factory Remington barrel will either shoot, or it won't. It's a gamble. However, you can do certain things to factory barrels to help get the most of out them. For example...Hand-lapping. Smooths the tooling marks and rifling edges in the barrel for a smoother, slicker surface for the bullets to ride along, helping to improve accuracy, efficiency, and to reduce copper build-up from the jackets, that causes copper-fouling. Polishing the chamber will improve feeding and extracting of brass. Free-floating is another big one. Glass-bedding the action, and having the action trued, and the barrel threads and shoulder trued also will help. Also, re-crowning with a perfectly centered and cut target crown will help significantly. The factory Rem crowns absolutely suck. Alot of times, simply recrowning a barrel with a proper crown will help significantly improve accuracy.</p><p> </p><p>All that should cost you about $200-300 from a smith, and after that, you will KNOW if it will or won't shoot. Might seem like a waste of time and money, but it could save you from spending that money, plus the $300-400 for a new barrel blank. You just never know.</p><p> </p><p>Every factory barrel I have, my smith has done those steps, and my rifles are shooting 1/2", and sometimes better, groups @ 100 yards. 1/2" groups at 100 yards out of a factory Rem barrel is pretty impressive to me. Hell, my hunting rifle is really lightweight, and is a 26" sporter-barreled 7mm RemMag that he built me, with a fully-worked factory Rem barrel, and it's shooting 5/8" groups @ 100 yards... I'm very happy with it. I took it into the woods 2 days with me this January (Jan 31 is close of season), fired 2 shots, and dropped 2 deer. I have zero complaints.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MudRunner2005, post: 927862, member: 12995"] A factory Remington barrel will either shoot, or it won't. It's a gamble. However, you can do certain things to factory barrels to help get the most of out them. For example...Hand-lapping. Smooths the tooling marks and rifling edges in the barrel for a smoother, slicker surface for the bullets to ride along, helping to improve accuracy, efficiency, and to reduce copper build-up from the jackets, that causes copper-fouling. Polishing the chamber will improve feeding and extracting of brass. Free-floating is another big one. Glass-bedding the action, and having the action trued, and the barrel threads and shoulder trued also will help. Also, re-crowning with a perfectly centered and cut target crown will help significantly. The factory Rem crowns absolutely suck. Alot of times, simply recrowning a barrel with a proper crown will help significantly improve accuracy. All that should cost you about $200-300 from a smith, and after that, you will KNOW if it will or won't shoot. Might seem like a waste of time and money, but it could save you from spending that money, plus the $300-400 for a new barrel blank. You just never know. Every factory barrel I have, my smith has done those steps, and my rifles are shooting 1/2", and sometimes better, groups @ 100 yards. 1/2" groups at 100 yards out of a factory Rem barrel is pretty impressive to me. Hell, my hunting rifle is really lightweight, and is a 26" sporter-barreled 7mm RemMag that he built me, with a fully-worked factory Rem barrel, and it's shooting 5/8" groups @ 100 yards... I'm very happy with it. I took it into the woods 2 days with me this January (Jan 31 is close of season), fired 2 shots, and dropped 2 deer. I have zero complaints. [/QUOTE]
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