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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
New Reloader with Question on Resizing
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<blockquote data-quote="MagnumManiac" data-source="post: 2790581" data-attributes="member: 10755"><p>The correct way to size brass is to Partial Full Length Size your brass. This means that you are sizing the brass just enough that it fits the chamber with the tiniest amount of clearance, .002" is the rule of thumb, I use this amount on my hunting rifles, on my precision rifles it is closer to .001", but they all have tighter (shorter) chambers than factory chambers. I want my brass to stretch at the very minimum or none at all, this is what kills brass.</p><p>Polish your expander ball, it will make enlarging the neck back to .002" under bullet diameter easier, I always measure new expanders with a micrometer that reads to .0001", then polish to a mirror finish using 1000 grit paper and lots of WD40 spun in a cordless drill or on the lathe.</p><p>When sizing brass, hover at the top of the stroke for 3-5 seconds so that the brass doesn't immediately spring back, which it will if you don't hover. I no longer use bushings, I get best results with dies that have honed necks, graphite lubed necks and sized/polished expanders, the aim here is to move the brass as least as possible and allowing the .0005" spring back into the equation. My comp rifles run excellently with only .0015" neck interference, often, more opens groups, while a hunting rifle often works just fine with .002", but this is not written in stone. To change tension, use a mandrel, but remember to move brass at the minimum, if this needs a separate die, then so be it.</p><p></p><p>Cheers.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MagnumManiac, post: 2790581, member: 10755"] The correct way to size brass is to Partial Full Length Size your brass. This means that you are sizing the brass just enough that it fits the chamber with the tiniest amount of clearance, .002” is the rule of thumb, I use this amount on my hunting rifles, on my precision rifles it is closer to .001”, but they all have tighter (shorter) chambers than factory chambers. I want my brass to stretch at the very minimum or none at all, this is what kills brass. Polish your expander ball, it will make enlarging the neck back to .002” under bullet diameter easier, I always measure new expanders with a micrometer that reads to .0001”, then polish to a mirror finish using 1000 grit paper and lots of WD40 spun in a cordless drill or on the lathe. When sizing brass, hover at the top of the stroke for 3-5 seconds so that the brass doesn’t immediately spring back, which it will if you don’t hover. I no longer use bushings, I get best results with dies that have honed necks, graphite lubed necks and sized/polished expanders, the aim here is to move the brass as least as possible and allowing the .0005” spring back into the equation. My comp rifles run excellently with only .0015” neck interference, often, more opens groups, while a hunting rifle often works just fine with .002”, but this is not written in stone. To change tension, use a mandrel, but remember to move brass at the minimum, if this needs a separate die, then so be it. Cheers. [/QUOTE]
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New Reloader with Question on Resizing
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