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Reloading
New Reloader Questions
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<blockquote data-quote="Lefty7mmstw" data-source="post: 1066748" data-attributes="member: 48043"><p>I'll toss my 2 bits into the mix here....</p><p> </p><p>1. <strong>brass brand</strong>-- brass matters in the fact that prep time changes and some brands tend to last longer than others. I use mostly Remington and Winchester brass but a lot of the guys are using Lapua and Norma for the cal's they can get them in but the $$ is higher to get into those two brands.</p><p> </p><p>2. <strong>concentricity gauge</strong>-- I don't have one but I haven't had to chase down errant accuracy issues either... I'll likely get one in the future though</p><p> </p><p>3. <strong>distance from the rifling origin (lands</strong>)-- do you want your rifle to single feed or mag. feed? is the caliber too overbore to survive the initial pressure spike if you DO jamb the bullet?? Extremely overbore cartridges like the 7rum will need some run to the rifling to smooth out the pressure spike as the bullet engraves.... lesser cartridges often do not. Some bullets often shoot better with little or no jump (vld type pills) and some need at least some jump (any monolithic) so this also muddies the water a bit</p><p>4. <strong>determining charge</strong>-- first, you need a certain amount of pressure to get a clean burn and get the bullet out of the barrel. Secondly,<strong> if you can</strong> <strong><em>NOT</em></strong> <strong>get the velocity you want with the slowest powders that will work in the cartridge, you will need to step up in cartridge</strong>. Unusually high pressures will strain the rifle steel and you may have a failure after stress cracking develops; it also wears the barrel more. Use book loading data or ask.... flying by the seat of your pants can risk your face, life, and firearm. </p><p>The amount of charge you go up between steps varies by case volume. A little cartridge like a 223 may need less than .5 grain increments... a bigger cartridge like a 300rum and you may as well start at 1 grain increments or coarser then fine tune with small increments.</p><p>5. <strong>seating the dies</strong>-- what do you want the dies to do?? fl sizing or neck sizing often requires the dies to allow the press to cam over.. that is where the 1/8 to 1/4 turn past good contact means. you have to take the lash out of the system to get the case in fully, so do as the manufacturer recommends. Partial fl or partial neck sizing may also be used, and if you have bushing dies you can play with neck tension by swapping out your bushings. </p><p>There are a lot of sizing options, but try them out on paper so see whether they help or not before you regard them as gospel. I've been a fan of partial fl sizing for years, but one rifle I have doesn't like it and was giving me a fit tracking down an accuracy issue... turns out this rifle wants the dies cammed over and didn't really like the original die brand I was using... all is well now.. she's back to .6 moa at 200 yards</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lefty7mmstw, post: 1066748, member: 48043"] I'll toss my 2 bits into the mix here.... 1. [B]brass brand[/B]-- brass matters in the fact that prep time changes and some brands tend to last longer than others. I use mostly Remington and Winchester brass but a lot of the guys are using Lapua and Norma for the cal's they can get them in but the $$ is higher to get into those two brands. 2. [B]concentricity gauge[/B]-- I don't have one but I haven't had to chase down errant accuracy issues either... I'll likely get one in the future though 3. [B]distance from the rifling origin (lands[/B])-- do you want your rifle to single feed or mag. feed? is the caliber too overbore to survive the initial pressure spike if you DO jamb the bullet?? Extremely overbore cartridges like the 7rum will need some run to the rifling to smooth out the pressure spike as the bullet engraves.... lesser cartridges often do not. Some bullets often shoot better with little or no jump (vld type pills) and some need at least some jump (any monolithic) so this also muddies the water a bit 4. [B]determining charge[/B]-- first, you need a certain amount of pressure to get a clean burn and get the bullet out of the barrel. Secondly,[B] if you can[/B] [B][I]NOT[/I][/B] [B]get the velocity you want with the slowest powders that will work in the cartridge, you will need to step up in cartridge[/B]. Unusually high pressures will strain the rifle steel and you may have a failure after stress cracking develops; it also wears the barrel more. Use book loading data or ask.... flying by the seat of your pants can risk your face, life, and firearm. The amount of charge you go up between steps varies by case volume. A little cartridge like a 223 may need less than .5 grain increments... a bigger cartridge like a 300rum and you may as well start at 1 grain increments or coarser then fine tune with small increments. 5. [B]seating the dies[/B]-- what do you want the dies to do?? fl sizing or neck sizing often requires the dies to allow the press to cam over.. that is where the 1/8 to 1/4 turn past good contact means. you have to take the lash out of the system to get the case in fully, so do as the manufacturer recommends. Partial fl or partial neck sizing may also be used, and if you have bushing dies you can play with neck tension by swapping out your bushings. There are a lot of sizing options, but try them out on paper so see whether they help or not before you regard them as gospel. I've been a fan of partial fl sizing for years, but one rifle I have doesn't like it and was giving me a fit tracking down an accuracy issue... turns out this rifle wants the dies cammed over and didn't really like the original die brand I was using... all is well now.. she's back to .6 moa at 200 yards [/QUOTE]
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