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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
New Reloader question...
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<blockquote data-quote="bengineer" data-source="post: 1739566" data-attributes="member: 36951"><p>I second the "don't buy a kit" ideal. Buy what you need. I use a Co-Ax that I picked up at a gun show for $100. I love it so much I bought one for my dad. I have an RCBS AmmoMaster for loading long stuff, but use it for pulling bullets and a few other tasks, too. A Forster 68 for seating bullets and a few other tasks. And a new Lyman turret for oddballs; I leave the dies in the turrets and just swap turrets. I load all my pistol and revolver on a Dillon 550, and a lot of my volume rounds, too. I even use the Dillon once I have found an accurate load using Newberry's OCW method with great results and a major time savings. I even have a Lee hand press for the odd time on the road or doing mindless stuff away from the bench.</p><p>I always work up loads with a balance beam scale, either as a primary or as a check on a Chargemaster. I sent some ammo with a buddy to South Africa; all those charges were from the Chargemaster. I weighed every one twice on both scales and now I am confident that if I calibrate it before I start it is trustworthy. </p><p>Use Imperial wax. I also use lanolin/alcohol or Dillon case lube for volume loading. A quick wash in a plastic tub with a splash of alcohol takes the lanolin off when the rounds are loaded. </p><p>I have a Crest ultrasonic, tried the Hornady model and sold it, stainless media in a Thumbler's big tumbler and a Dillon small vibratory. I usually clean my brass in a mix of walnut and corncob in the Dillon with Dillon's blue goop in the media. Stainless media and lemishine works wonderfully, but I hate the tedium of separation and drying. The ultrasonic is slower than I had hoped for, so I clean dirty suppressor guts in it and stuff for other people.</p><p>I use every brand of shellholder, but I try to marry one shellholder and die set to each gun. I try.</p><p>I measure and record every possible dimension that I can think of when I make ammo. I measure and record every possible dimension that I can think of. (that bears repeating, but no caps yet) I use Co-Ax die lock rings because I have a co-ax press that likes them; they don't work on the 550 toolheads.</p><p>Make sure your primers are flush or deeper than the case head.</p><p>Most any reloading press will do. If dies won't do, there is something wrong with them. Some shellholders won't fit in my RCBS hand primer (Redding's knurled ones). Clean your brass before you load. Ditto reloading dies. Oil moving press parts. Keep your dirty fingers off your clean bullets. Use the right powder; ONLY ONE POWDER ON THE BENCH AT A TIME! </p><p>Find someone to mentor you; he can save you thousands of dollars, hundreds of hours, and a dozen fingers and eyes.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="bengineer, post: 1739566, member: 36951"] I second the "don't buy a kit" ideal. Buy what you need. I use a Co-Ax that I picked up at a gun show for $100. I love it so much I bought one for my dad. I have an RCBS AmmoMaster for loading long stuff, but use it for pulling bullets and a few other tasks, too. A Forster 68 for seating bullets and a few other tasks. And a new Lyman turret for oddballs; I leave the dies in the turrets and just swap turrets. I load all my pistol and revolver on a Dillon 550, and a lot of my volume rounds, too. I even use the Dillon once I have found an accurate load using Newberry's OCW method with great results and a major time savings. I even have a Lee hand press for the odd time on the road or doing mindless stuff away from the bench. I always work up loads with a balance beam scale, either as a primary or as a check on a Chargemaster. I sent some ammo with a buddy to South Africa; all those charges were from the Chargemaster. I weighed every one twice on both scales and now I am confident that if I calibrate it before I start it is trustworthy. Use Imperial wax. I also use lanolin/alcohol or Dillon case lube for volume loading. A quick wash in a plastic tub with a splash of alcohol takes the lanolin off when the rounds are loaded. I have a Crest ultrasonic, tried the Hornady model and sold it, stainless media in a Thumbler's big tumbler and a Dillon small vibratory. I usually clean my brass in a mix of walnut and corncob in the Dillon with Dillon's blue goop in the media. Stainless media and lemishine works wonderfully, but I hate the tedium of separation and drying. The ultrasonic is slower than I had hoped for, so I clean dirty suppressor guts in it and stuff for other people. I use every brand of shellholder, but I try to marry one shellholder and die set to each gun. I try. I measure and record every possible dimension that I can think of when I make ammo. I measure and record every possible dimension that I can think of. (that bears repeating, but no caps yet) I use Co-Ax die lock rings because I have a co-ax press that likes them; they don't work on the 550 toolheads. Make sure your primers are flush or deeper than the case head. Most any reloading press will do. If dies won't do, there is something wrong with them. Some shellholders won't fit in my RCBS hand primer (Redding's knurled ones). Clean your brass before you load. Ditto reloading dies. Oil moving press parts. Keep your dirty fingers off your clean bullets. Use the right powder; ONLY ONE POWDER ON THE BENCH AT A TIME! Find someone to mentor you; he can save you thousands of dollars, hundreds of hours, and a dozen fingers and eyes. [/QUOTE]
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