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<blockquote data-quote="JimmyCP" data-source="post: 1693718" data-attributes="member: 106166"><p>I put a polished edge on the knifes I build. If the heat treat is right and the apex is at the right angle, it will go through 3-4 elk before the have to be stopped for an average of 15 min backed to a polished edge.</p><p>Any knife that was ever so hard it was hell to shapen went in the scrap pile.</p><p>Japan and the USA got into a little competition to see who could make the hardest stainless steel with the cheapest alloys since the early days.</p><p></p><p>Now you have everyone with dull kitchen knifes, pocket knifes, field knifes etc because they can't shapen them. Most knifes come from the factory with one side of the apex off a degree or two. Then the customer can't ever get it sharp because it needs about 3 hours on a stone because it's to hard.</p><p></p><p>I used to sharpen knifes for side money on top of building them. Stainless that was brought to me that was in the above condition I wouldn't take.</p><p>Of course you could run it on a machine and clean it up but most machines leave a foiled edge wich in turn makes it dull quicker. You could use the wicked edge for a 500.00 investment and put a double bevel on it to remove the foiled edge.</p><p>I'm more into making sure the geometry is corect, having a convex apex and when looking at the edge after stroping under a microscope or magnifying glass there's no bristles or foiled edge. That's the perfect edge that you can drop a sheat of paper in the air and slice all the way through it.</p><p>Here a palm skinner I just finished for guy that you can see the mirror reflection.[ATTACH=full]145437[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]145438[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]145439[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="JimmyCP, post: 1693718, member: 106166"] I put a polished edge on the knifes I build. If the heat treat is right and the apex is at the right angle, it will go through 3-4 elk before the have to be stopped for an average of 15 min backed to a polished edge. Any knife that was ever so hard it was hell to shapen went in the scrap pile. Japan and the USA got into a little competition to see who could make the hardest stainless steel with the cheapest alloys since the early days. Now you have everyone with dull kitchen knifes, pocket knifes, field knifes etc because they can't shapen them. Most knifes come from the factory with one side of the apex off a degree or two. Then the customer can't ever get it sharp because it needs about 3 hours on a stone because it's to hard. I used to sharpen knifes for side money on top of building them. Stainless that was brought to me that was in the above condition I wouldn't take. Of course you could run it on a machine and clean it up but most machines leave a foiled edge wich in turn makes it dull quicker. You could use the wicked edge for a 500.00 investment and put a double bevel on it to remove the foiled edge. I'm more into making sure the geometry is corect, having a convex apex and when looking at the edge after stroping under a microscope or magnifying glass there's no bristles or foiled edge. That's the perfect edge that you can drop a sheat of paper in the air and slice all the way through it. Here a palm skinner I just finished for guy that you can see the mirror reflection.[ATTACH=full]145437[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]145438[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]145439[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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