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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
New Brass first firings do i.....
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<blockquote data-quote="DoneNOut" data-source="post: 2860631" data-attributes="member: 113404"><p>I'd trust the Hornady gadget over the bolt closure. You could be stuffed into the lands that additional .016" on the bolt closure method. You could sharpie the ogive area on the bullet to see if there are land marks.</p><p></p><p>My favorite, and what I think is most accurate, is to let gravity show you.</p><p></p><p>1. Clean chamber.</p><p>2. Muzzle up with buttstock on bench. Take a new piece of brass and load it into the chamber with your pinky finger. You should be able to press hard on the back of the case head and it should fall out no problem as you let your finger loose. (Now, this is a test to make sure the brass is clearing the chamber with no false reads)</p><p>3. Same piece of brass, load a bullet in it a bit long, like 2.840. Slowly insert the round into the chamber as before and see if it will fall free when you push on it hard with your pinky. If it doesn't fall free, but sticks in the rifling, then seat the bullet deeper a little as a time, like .003" until you can push hard on the back of the brass and it falls back out freely with gravity. A bullet will stay in the rifling with even .001" into them. SO, when it falls free you are extremely close to the lands. (Punch stuck round out with a cleaning rod from muzzle or small dowel rod)</p><p>4. Record that length, and then go .020 deeper to ensure the new brass stretch won't put you into jam. That shoulder of the new brass will move forward with the bullet maybe .010ish. Second and subsequent firings you size shoulders back just .002" from fired length so they don't get worn out so fast from stretching from factory length.</p><p></p><p>On another note. H4350 is gonna be accurate, but slower than H100V and RL17. I'd nod to the H100V since it has less burn temp. RL17 is a velocity champ, but burns hotter. Me, I don't care, barrels are consumables.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DoneNOut, post: 2860631, member: 113404"] I'd trust the Hornady gadget over the bolt closure. You could be stuffed into the lands that additional .016" on the bolt closure method. You could sharpie the ogive area on the bullet to see if there are land marks. My favorite, and what I think is most accurate, is to let gravity show you. 1. Clean chamber. 2. Muzzle up with buttstock on bench. Take a new piece of brass and load it into the chamber with your pinky finger. You should be able to press hard on the back of the case head and it should fall out no problem as you let your finger loose. (Now, this is a test to make sure the brass is clearing the chamber with no false reads) 3. Same piece of brass, load a bullet in it a bit long, like 2.840. Slowly insert the round into the chamber as before and see if it will fall free when you push on it hard with your pinky. If it doesn't fall free, but sticks in the rifling, then seat the bullet deeper a little as a time, like .003" until you can push hard on the back of the brass and it falls back out freely with gravity. A bullet will stay in the rifling with even .001" into them. SO, when it falls free you are extremely close to the lands. (Punch stuck round out with a cleaning rod from muzzle or small dowel rod) 4. Record that length, and then go .020 deeper to ensure the new brass stretch won't put you into jam. That shoulder of the new brass will move forward with the bullet maybe .010ish. Second and subsequent firings you size shoulders back just .002" from fired length so they don't get worn out so fast from stretching from factory length. On another note. H4350 is gonna be accurate, but slower than H100V and RL17. I'd nod to the H100V since it has less burn temp. RL17 is a velocity champ, but burns hotter. Me, I don't care, barrels are consumables. [/QUOTE]
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New Brass first firings do i.....
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