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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Need help removing muzzle brake.
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<blockquote data-quote="Hired Gun" data-source="post: 927131" data-attributes="member: 1290"><p>You don't want to heat it slow. Reason is you don't want the heat in the barrel. A map gas will go hotter faster than propane but propane will work too. Stay away from acetylene. That is way too hot and hard to control. Forget the penetrating oil if it's loctited and you will need a lot more than a drill bit. I use the thickest brass rod that will fit and then stack them to fill the port as much as possible. Get the rifle locked down in a vise and be ready to put a hundred pounds of torque if need be. You will need an infrared heat sensing gun to monitor the temp. Put the heat on the brake only right near the threads. When it hits 400 give it a try. Just don't quit. You will need to go hard. Beyond the Loctite I have see them torqued up to 150 pounds. Still no go heat to 450 but it needs to be quick or you will burn the barrel.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Hired Gun, post: 927131, member: 1290"] You don't want to heat it slow. Reason is you don't want the heat in the barrel. A map gas will go hotter faster than propane but propane will work too. Stay away from acetylene. That is way too hot and hard to control. Forget the penetrating oil if it's loctited and you will need a lot more than a drill bit. I use the thickest brass rod that will fit and then stack them to fill the port as much as possible. Get the rifle locked down in a vise and be ready to put a hundred pounds of torque if need be. You will need an infrared heat sensing gun to monitor the temp. Put the heat on the brake only right near the threads. When it hits 400 give it a try. Just don't quit. You will need to go hard. Beyond the Loctite I have see them torqued up to 150 pounds. Still no go heat to 450 but it needs to be quick or you will burn the barrel. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Need help removing muzzle brake.
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