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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Need guidance...case neck thickness
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<blockquote data-quote="sedancowboy" data-source="post: 1569688" data-attributes="member: 85874"><p>Alibiiv and the OP If I had fired brass that needed turning I would start by cleaning the brass and brushing the inside of the neck to clean it. I then would lube the inside of the neck. I spray Hornady one shot on a nylon neck brush and run it inside the neck. Next after removing the neck expander from my sizing die I would size the cases. Now to the outside turning process. You will need a expander die and expander mandrel ( I use Sinclair) a turning tool and a turning Mandrel with the appropriate cutter. Run all cases through the expander die to size the case neck to the exact dia needed for the turning mandrel. It is important to purchase both mandrels from the same manufacture. The expander mandrel is typically .001 larger than the turning mandrel. At this point you need to trim all cases to the exact length. This will ensure that the depth of each cut into the shoulder will be the same. Now follow the turning manufactures directions to set the turning tool up and turn a case and measure to see how you have done. You will ruin a few cases in learning how all this works. I suggest at first you only kiss the shoulder with your cutter. Tubing Calipers are a must. I use a power driver with shell holders from Sinclair to turn the cases and I hold the turning tool in my hand to let it float with the case being turned. </p><p>Turning case neck is not a cheap operation. you will have well over $300 in tools and a set of mandrels are about $60 for each caliber if you use a carbide turning mandrel. I recommend the carbide turning they are much less prone to galling and heat build up. I also use a small driver that turns slow and therefore have no heat issues at all. I do not recommend inside reaming unless you have to remove donuts to continue using the brass. If you use a feeler gauge to set up your cutter It is easier, use a .014 gauge and go from there. For a SAMMI chamber I would only turn your necks to skim about 80% of total area or .014 thickness. I would not turn necks thinner than about .013 unless for benchrest shooting tight neck guns. </p><p>If I have not answered all your questions then please continue to ask until I understand and then answer to your satisfaction. Remember there are no dumb questions only dumb answers from not understanding the question.</p><p>Henry</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="sedancowboy, post: 1569688, member: 85874"] Alibiiv and the OP If I had fired brass that needed turning I would start by cleaning the brass and brushing the inside of the neck to clean it. I then would lube the inside of the neck. I spray Hornady one shot on a nylon neck brush and run it inside the neck. Next after removing the neck expander from my sizing die I would size the cases. Now to the outside turning process. You will need a expander die and expander mandrel ( I use Sinclair) a turning tool and a turning Mandrel with the appropriate cutter. Run all cases through the expander die to size the case neck to the exact dia needed for the turning mandrel. It is important to purchase both mandrels from the same manufacture. The expander mandrel is typically .001 larger than the turning mandrel. At this point you need to trim all cases to the exact length. This will ensure that the depth of each cut into the shoulder will be the same. Now follow the turning manufactures directions to set the turning tool up and turn a case and measure to see how you have done. You will ruin a few cases in learning how all this works. I suggest at first you only kiss the shoulder with your cutter. Tubing Calipers are a must. I use a power driver with shell holders from Sinclair to turn the cases and I hold the turning tool in my hand to let it float with the case being turned. Turning case neck is not a cheap operation. you will have well over $300 in tools and a set of mandrels are about $60 for each caliber if you use a carbide turning mandrel. I recommend the carbide turning they are much less prone to galling and heat build up. I also use a small driver that turns slow and therefore have no heat issues at all. I do not recommend inside reaming unless you have to remove donuts to continue using the brass. If you use a feeler gauge to set up your cutter It is easier, use a .014 gauge and go from there. For a SAMMI chamber I would only turn your necks to skim about 80% of total area or .014 thickness. I would not turn necks thinner than about .013 unless for benchrest shooting tight neck guns. If I have not answered all your questions then please continue to ask until I understand and then answer to your satisfaction. Remember there are no dumb questions only dumb answers from not understanding the question. Henry [/QUOTE]
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Need guidance...case neck thickness
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