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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Need guidance...case neck thickness
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<blockquote data-quote="redleg1013" data-source="post: 1566280" data-attributes="member: 49994"><p>First off you'll need a tubing micrometer, no, it doesn't need to be a Starett or Mitutoyo, but you will need some feeler gages (harbor freight will suffice), check them with a micrometer to make sure they're legit within a half thou (we're not all tool and die makers) and then use the verified feeler gage to verify the tubing micrometer. I paid less than $40 for mine, it passes QC in the inspection room at work, ymmv. After that start taking several measurements of several pieces of brass to find an idea of how much clean up you'll need - more on this later (you'll need the feeler gage to set the cutter on your neck turner, using the same feel from validating your micrometers. I personally use the Forster collet rig, but to each their own). Here's where I get off into my own OCD. I remove the spindle from the sizing die and take em all the way down (tool deflection is a real thing and a sizing mandrel is a lot more rigid than the threaded decapping rod). At this point if you're curious, re measure the case neck thickness, and you'll see they are a lot more consistent than before. If you take several neck measurements from several pieces, you now have an even better number to work from, and may even find yourself getting to keep some thickness you didn't have before (unless you have to turn to a specific OD for a custom chamber) just remember to keep about a thou and a half per side clearance (I believe this was mentioned before). Now with your brass sized (ensuring the shoulder is at the same location), and re-measured, trim them to the same length so that you don't have some necks turned into the shoulder some stopping at the junction, and some stopping short. Now that you have all this done, start turning, plan on losing the rest of the day... be sure to use some kind of cutting oil, heck WD40 works in a pinch. At this point, with my cases, sized, trimmed, and turned, I'll anneal them, and be done with it until I hit them with the mandrel one last time (this is done as part of the loading process since all the previous work was done on my Forster press everything going foreward is square and concentric with the case head) drop powder, seat the pill and then go shoot.</p><p></p><p>Now to address the costs. You can be all in for under $250 figuring $40 for the tubing micrometer, $20 for the feeler gages, around $100-$120 for the neck turning tool (depending what you get) then whatever mandrels and whatever holding die body you choose. Or... you may discover that after sizing and expanding on a mandrel that your necks are uniform enough, you can skip a whole mess of work, load some up, go to your favorite firing line and work on fundamentals and reading the wind... something I should have done before investing a mess of time and money into something that I couldn't reap the benefits of.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="redleg1013, post: 1566280, member: 49994"] First off you'll need a tubing micrometer, no, it doesn't need to be a Starett or Mitutoyo, but you will need some feeler gages (harbor freight will suffice), check them with a micrometer to make sure they're legit within a half thou (we're not all tool and die makers) and then use the verified feeler gage to verify the tubing micrometer. I paid less than $40 for mine, it passes QC in the inspection room at work, ymmv. After that start taking several measurements of several pieces of brass to find an idea of how much clean up you'll need - more on this later (you'll need the feeler gage to set the cutter on your neck turner, using the same feel from validating your micrometers. I personally use the Forster collet rig, but to each their own). Here's where I get off into my own OCD. I remove the spindle from the sizing die and take em all the way down (tool deflection is a real thing and a sizing mandrel is a lot more rigid than the threaded decapping rod). At this point if you're curious, re measure the case neck thickness, and you'll see they are a lot more consistent than before. If you take several neck measurements from several pieces, you now have an even better number to work from, and may even find yourself getting to keep some thickness you didn't have before (unless you have to turn to a specific OD for a custom chamber) just remember to keep about a thou and a half per side clearance (I believe this was mentioned before). Now with your brass sized (ensuring the shoulder is at the same location), and re-measured, trim them to the same length so that you don't have some necks turned into the shoulder some stopping at the junction, and some stopping short. Now that you have all this done, start turning, plan on losing the rest of the day... be sure to use some kind of cutting oil, heck WD40 works in a pinch. At this point, with my cases, sized, trimmed, and turned, I'll anneal them, and be done with it until I hit them with the mandrel one last time (this is done as part of the loading process since all the previous work was done on my Forster press everything going foreward is square and concentric with the case head) drop powder, seat the pill and then go shoot. Now to address the costs. You can be all in for under $250 figuring $40 for the tubing micrometer, $20 for the feeler gages, around $100-$120 for the neck turning tool (depending what you get) then whatever mandrels and whatever holding die body you choose. Or... you may discover that after sizing and expanding on a mandrel that your necks are uniform enough, you can skip a whole mess of work, load some up, go to your favorite firing line and work on fundamentals and reading the wind... something I should have done before investing a mess of time and money into something that I couldn't reap the benefits of. [/QUOTE]
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Need guidance...case neck thickness
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