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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Need equipment advice - please help
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 450054" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>* here's the deal on cailipers for making measuments. You can do nicely with a good pair of digital ones (forget the Chinese ones), but do just as well with a analog dial set.. Sinclair will tell you to buy the Starretts, and I'll tell you not to! (I own two or three pairs of Starretts). The Mitutoyos are the easiest to recalibrate when they get out of sync! The accuracey is the same between all the major brands. You have no real need for a six inch pair (more money), and a four inch pair will do everything well.</p><p> </p><p>* The Forster press has a built in priming device that seats the primer about .004" to .005" under the face of the case head. This is very good. The K&M is used for feel and very accurate priming. 95% of the folks have no real need for this. Sinclair sells a very expensive hand priming device, but the K&M can be bought for a fraction of the price tag. I see no real difference between them other than color.</p><p> </p><p>* the only seater better than a Forster ultra seater is a Wilson, and it won't work in a conventional press</p><p> </p><p>* if you want a bushing die there are many. Forster uses their own bushings, while Redding uses a Wilson replica. About the same quality, and the call is yours. But with a full length die the Forster is better. But if your serious about neck sizing, you'll use Wilson dies in an arbor press</p><p> </p><p>* now I have not used the newer Forster trimmer, but I'm hearing a lot of good stuff about it. I use a much modded Wilson, and have had it close to twenty years. I added the micrometer stop long before I ever saw one for sale. I revised the clamp twice before anybody else did. I also changed the grind on the cutter, and it really cuts better now (the one from Wilson is setup for steel, and reground it for brass). I'd just buy the Forster and live with it.</p><p> </p><p>* I do recommend buying the precision reloading book from Sinclair. Fred gave me a copy when I got my first catalog from him (he's since added a ton more data to it). That was my start. I used to call him a couple times a month with questions (before we had email!). Never be afraid to ask a question!</p><p> </p><p>* I also recommend you kinda put off neck sizing for awhile. It's not for beginers, and can get you in trouble fast. When you start you'll probably want a neck turning tool. I use a Sinclair, but honestly don't like it all that well. I'll probably buy a K&M sometime in the near future.</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 450054, member: 25383"] * here's the deal on cailipers for making measuments. You can do nicely with a good pair of digital ones (forget the Chinese ones), but do just as well with a analog dial set.. Sinclair will tell you to buy the Starretts, and I'll tell you not to! (I own two or three pairs of Starretts). The Mitutoyos are the easiest to recalibrate when they get out of sync! The accuracey is the same between all the major brands. You have no real need for a six inch pair (more money), and a four inch pair will do everything well. * The Forster press has a built in priming device that seats the primer about .004" to .005" under the face of the case head. This is very good. The K&M is used for feel and very accurate priming. 95% of the folks have no real need for this. Sinclair sells a very expensive hand priming device, but the K&M can be bought for a fraction of the price tag. I see no real difference between them other than color. * the only seater better than a Forster ultra seater is a Wilson, and it won't work in a conventional press * if you want a bushing die there are many. Forster uses their own bushings, while Redding uses a Wilson replica. About the same quality, and the call is yours. But with a full length die the Forster is better. But if your serious about neck sizing, you'll use Wilson dies in an arbor press * now I have not used the newer Forster trimmer, but I'm hearing a lot of good stuff about it. I use a much modded Wilson, and have had it close to twenty years. I added the micrometer stop long before I ever saw one for sale. I revised the clamp twice before anybody else did. I also changed the grind on the cutter, and it really cuts better now (the one from Wilson is setup for steel, and reground it for brass). I'd just buy the Forster and live with it. * I do recommend buying the precision reloading book from Sinclair. Fred gave me a copy when I got my first catalog from him (he's since added a ton more data to it). That was my start. I used to call him a couple times a month with questions (before we had email!). Never be afraid to ask a question! * I also recommend you kinda put off neck sizing for awhile. It's not for beginers, and can get you in trouble fast. When you start you'll probably want a neck turning tool. I use a Sinclair, but honestly don't like it all that well. I'll probably buy a K&M sometime in the near future. gary [/QUOTE]
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Need equipment advice - please help
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