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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Need equipment advice - please help
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 450050" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>Personally I like the Forster press better than any two of the rest put together. You'll never wear it out, and no press loads better ammo period. They are a little more money, but you get what you pay for.</p><p> </p><p> Forster makes national match .308 dies if that fits your needs (what are you loading for?). I do recommend full length dies for something like an AR15 or M14 over neck dies. And if the chamber is very tight you may want to order in small base dies sets (mostly for semi automatic rifles), but know a lot of folks that use regular dies for their AR15's. If it's a bolt action rifle then of course you can neck size, and gain the advantages of course. Redding makes a bump die to push the shoulders back for these calibers. Redding, Forster, and Hornaday all sell bushing neck dies, and the choice if yours. For a seater, I'd say right up front that the Forster seaters are the best. I also like the way the Forster does a full length sizing better than the others (better alignment in the necks). But there's nothing wrong with the Redding stuff; except the price tag.</p><p> </p><p> Personally I'd suggest that you order in a simple powder measurer for a start. The RCBS does a fine job, but I don't recommend it for beginers. (by the way a PACT is the samething as PACT makes them both). The Lyman #55 is relatively cheap and does a fine job on fine grained powders. You'll need a trickeler (I use an RCBS) for the long grain stuff you'll probably use in the .308. I use a PACT electronic scale (they also make the RCBS), and have not used a beam scale in many years.</p><p> </p><p> Just buy a simple case trimmer for starters. I own three different ones, and all do a fair job in the nitch. I normally use a Wilson or an older Forster, but do all my revolver ammo in a Lyman. Forster has a new one that looks like it maybe a best buy for 95% of the reloaders.</p><p> </p><p> Reloading manuals seem to be made by everybody. I find that I use the Accurate as much as any these days. And if you are shooting NRA high power or service rifle this is a good one. I also use a Speer, a Hornaday, and a couple from Hogdon (one is very old but important). I also use the Sierra and Lee CD's, and recommend these!</p><p> </p><p> For case lube, I use Imperial Die Sizing Wax as much as anything (I do use others but not with regular dies). I do recommend buying a good four or six inch dial caliper for measurments (I use a Mitutoyo most of the time, but actually own eight pairs). I also recommend buying a good one inch micrometer that reads in .0001". If you using military brass you'll want to buy a primer pocket tool for each primer size. I use a K&M. I also prime either with the setup on the Forster press (very good one) or a K&M priming tool. Down the road you may want to add tools here and there like a concentricity gauge, and loading trays. as you need them.</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 450050, member: 25383"] Personally I like the Forster press better than any two of the rest put together. You'll never wear it out, and no press loads better ammo period. They are a little more money, but you get what you pay for. Forster makes national match .308 dies if that fits your needs (what are you loading for?). I do recommend full length dies for something like an AR15 or M14 over neck dies. And if the chamber is very tight you may want to order in small base dies sets (mostly for semi automatic rifles), but know a lot of folks that use regular dies for their AR15's. If it's a bolt action rifle then of course you can neck size, and gain the advantages of course. Redding makes a bump die to push the shoulders back for these calibers. Redding, Forster, and Hornaday all sell bushing neck dies, and the choice if yours. For a seater, I'd say right up front that the Forster seaters are the best. I also like the way the Forster does a full length sizing better than the others (better alignment in the necks). But there's nothing wrong with the Redding stuff; except the price tag. Personally I'd suggest that you order in a simple powder measurer for a start. The RCBS does a fine job, but I don't recommend it for beginers. (by the way a PACT is the samething as PACT makes them both). The Lyman #55 is relatively cheap and does a fine job on fine grained powders. You'll need a trickeler (I use an RCBS) for the long grain stuff you'll probably use in the .308. I use a PACT electronic scale (they also make the RCBS), and have not used a beam scale in many years. Just buy a simple case trimmer for starters. I own three different ones, and all do a fair job in the nitch. I normally use a Wilson or an older Forster, but do all my revolver ammo in a Lyman. Forster has a new one that looks like it maybe a best buy for 95% of the reloaders. Reloading manuals seem to be made by everybody. I find that I use the Accurate as much as any these days. And if you are shooting NRA high power or service rifle this is a good one. I also use a Speer, a Hornaday, and a couple from Hogdon (one is very old but important). I also use the Sierra and Lee CD's, and recommend these! For case lube, I use Imperial Die Sizing Wax as much as anything (I do use others but not with regular dies). I do recommend buying a good four or six inch dial caliper for measurments (I use a Mitutoyo most of the time, but actually own eight pairs). I also recommend buying a good one inch micrometer that reads in .0001". If you using military brass you'll want to buy a primer pocket tool for each primer size. I use a K&M. I also prime either with the setup on the Forster press (very good one) or a K&M priming tool. Down the road you may want to add tools here and there like a concentricity gauge, and loading trays. as you need them. gary [/QUOTE]
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Need equipment advice - please help
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