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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Need advise on Duracoat
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<blockquote data-quote="shortgrass" data-source="post: 1099339" data-attributes="member: 24284"><p>There's no end to the tools that might be needed. That's part of the reason many 'specialize', and only accept certain types of work (another reason is thats all they know how to do, well) . After 22yrs. I'm still buying reamers (I own 74, now) and making another tool(s) to be able to do another job or to simplify a job. No doubt about it, overhead can be high. You can bake small parts in the oven in the kitchen, but if you get caught! There is no substitute for having your curing oven on site, right next to the paint booth, and it needs to be able to hold a complete barreled action. Another reason is, carbon steels start to rust immediately after leaving the blast cabinet. The parts go from the blaster to de-grease to the oven for pre-heating (that 'bleeds-out' any oil that might have been missed during de-greasing and drives moisture causing rust away). ALWAYS use <em>clean </em>aluminum oxide, otherwise you might blast contaminants right into the surface you are preping. That rules out the bead blaster at the machine shop as its had anything and everything through it. And, if it's a greasy or oily contaminate, the coating might not stick. Consider building a curing oven. The commercial versions I've seen are quite expensive. A blast cabinet might be built, but a "store bought" one would be better. No doubt about it, it takes more than a set of punches, a few screw drivers and a hammer to gunsmith</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shortgrass, post: 1099339, member: 24284"] There's no end to the tools that might be needed. That's part of the reason many 'specialize', and only accept certain types of work (another reason is thats all they know how to do, well) . After 22yrs. I'm still buying reamers (I own 74, now) and making another tool(s) to be able to do another job or to simplify a job. No doubt about it, overhead can be high. You can bake small parts in the oven in the kitchen, but if you get caught! There is no substitute for having your curing oven on site, right next to the paint booth, and it needs to be able to hold a complete barreled action. Another reason is, carbon steels start to rust immediately after leaving the blast cabinet. The parts go from the blaster to de-grease to the oven for pre-heating (that 'bleeds-out' any oil that might have been missed during de-greasing and drives moisture causing rust away). ALWAYS use [I]clean [/I]aluminum oxide, otherwise you might blast contaminants right into the surface you are preping. That rules out the bead blaster at the machine shop as its had anything and everything through it. And, if it's a greasy or oily contaminate, the coating might not stick. Consider building a curing oven. The commercial versions I've seen are quite expensive. A blast cabinet might be built, but a "store bought" one would be better. No doubt about it, it takes more than a set of punches, a few screw drivers and a hammer to gunsmith [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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Need advise on Duracoat
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