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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Need 22-284 Help Before I Find Out If This Gun Will Float
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<blockquote data-quote="Larry Morris" data-source="post: 64123" data-attributes="member: 249"><p>Reed,</p><p>I talked to Richard over two weeks ago and he has some 80 gr. on the way - you know how the mail is.</p><p>I don't think the 75 gr. Amax is blowing up, all are making it to the target and by the looks of the targets they aren't over or under stabilized.</p><p>I purchased a lb. Of Hodgdon Retumbo (no one here in the sticks had any H1000, H870 or Reloader 22) and am going to play with that until Richards bullets arrive.</p><p>I don't think I have the twist rate for anything heavier.?</p><p>I have read of other members getting velocities in the 3600-3800 fps range with good results.</p><p></p><p>Goodgrouper,</p><p>Chronograph is a Chrony Beta Model and I have checked it about a year ago with a 35P but the on the day I was testing the 22-284 it was cloudy so who knows. It might be time to recheck. It ran about 18 fps high avg. than the 35P.</p><p>I was hoping to get around 1800 to 2000 rounds out of this barrel even if I have to rechamber a couple of times.</p><p>I shoot moly coated bullets in all my 6x284's so I may go ahead and moly these 75 grainers and see what happens.</p><p>I get pretty consistent results at 1000 to 1100 yards from my 6x284's with 105 gr. Amax's.</p><p></p><p>308 nate,</p><p>I do all the work on my rifles and have been for 5 years. I got tired of paying and waiting 2 months for some small machining job to be done. There are NOT any gunsmiths or even a machinist that will attempt to do a chamber job within 45 miles of where I live. I and everyone else were taking everything to Oklahoma City or Lawton, Okla.</p><p></p><p>I cut barrel length ½" shorter than Lilja's cut/lapping mark. Rifling good.</p><p>I use pins on the muzzle end, dial indicated in to .0001" then cut at 11 deg. And check for any burrs with loupe and Q-Tip.</p><p>Muzzle brake was installed and hole bored to final dia. while barrel was rotating true to axis -- .020 over bullet dia.</p><p></p><p>I only use indicator rods when I am re-chambering, otherwise I use a + or – gage pin on new barrels. If indicator shows that I can move pin any I heat the pin with heat gun a little and it will show "0" movement, but you do have to wait for it to cool before removing. Anything with over .0002" run-out is unacceptable in my book.</p><p>I used a rented live-pilot reamer from Shawnee on the rifle because I didn't know if this caliber was going to work out or not. I normally buy my reamers from Dave at PPG. I mic all reamers before chambering and this one was good and I used a perfect fitting pilot. Chamber is excellent – absolutely no run out in chamber or on case. Made a floating reamer holder from a picture that Mike Bryant sent me – works great.</p><p></p><p>Barrel is not bedded in front of the recoil lug.</p><p>The action has aluminum pillars (before bedding) and they are contoured to the same diameter as the action. No stress in other words. I didn't take any pictures of it before I put it back in the stock but it looks like textbook bedding. </p><p></p><p>After breaking in barrel and fireforming brass (Lapua), brass is neck sized only with .001" squeeze on bullet (Redding Bushing die and Competition Bullet Seater) and I use a Bersin Bullet concentricity tool and/or Sinclair Concentricity Tool. After 15 rounds of naked bullets the barrel cleans up with three patches and when I do use Sweets there is only a trace of copper fowling.</p><p></p><p>After posting my question yesterday I talked to a shooting friend and he thinks that the scope (Leupold) may be malfunctioning. So I clamped the rifle in a vise and put my trusty Leupold bore-sighter on and ran the elevation and windage both ways. It came back to the same zero. I also have the windage and elevation in the middle of its adjustments so the inner tube is not near the outer tube. I took a rifle out of the vise and bounced it on the concrete floor (with the recoil pad down) pretty hard then back to the vise. Zero had not changed.</p><p>I don't know if this eliminates the scope.</p><p></p><p>I am going to shoot another group with 50.0 gr. R22 today – if weather permits and then load up some Retumbo (don't know where to start) and chronograph both. I don't rule out the possibility that the chronograph is giving false numbers either.</p><p></p><p>I read the thread on the 22-243 AI and "Varmint Hunter" just had to post the picture of that 600 yard group – BUT you still missed the dime. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif </p><p>That's some fine shooting and if this thing doesn't pan out I will rechamber to 22-243 AI or sell the barrel.</p><p></p><p>I appreciate everyone's suggestions and questions.</p><p>I'm trying to give you enough info that maybe you will see something I'm not.</p><p></p><p>I'm not giving up yet!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Larry Morris, post: 64123, member: 249"] Reed, I talked to Richard over two weeks ago and he has some 80 gr. on the way - you know how the mail is. I don’t think the 75 gr. Amax is blowing up, all are making it to the target and by the looks of the targets they aren’t over or under stabilized. I purchased a lb. Of Hodgdon Retumbo (no one here in the sticks had any H1000, H870 or Reloader 22) and am going to play with that until Richards bullets arrive. I don’t think I have the twist rate for anything heavier.? I have read of other members getting velocities in the 3600-3800 fps range with good results. Goodgrouper, Chronograph is a Chrony Beta Model and I have checked it about a year ago with a 35P but the on the day I was testing the 22-284 it was cloudy so who knows. It might be time to recheck. It ran about 18 fps high avg. than the 35P. I was hoping to get around 1800 to 2000 rounds out of this barrel even if I have to rechamber a couple of times. I shoot moly coated bullets in all my 6x284’s so I may go ahead and moly these 75 grainers and see what happens. I get pretty consistent results at 1000 to 1100 yards from my 6x284’s with 105 gr. Amax’s. 308 nate, I do all the work on my rifles and have been for 5 years. I got tired of paying and waiting 2 months for some small machining job to be done. There are NOT any gunsmiths or even a machinist that will attempt to do a chamber job within 45 miles of where I live. I and everyone else were taking everything to Oklahoma City or Lawton, Okla. I cut barrel length ½” shorter than Lilja’s cut/lapping mark. Rifling good. I use pins on the muzzle end, dial indicated in to .0001” then cut at 11 deg. And check for any burrs with loupe and Q-Tip. Muzzle brake was installed and hole bored to final dia. while barrel was rotating true to axis -- .020 over bullet dia. I only use indicator rods when I am re-chambering, otherwise I use a + or – gage pin on new barrels. If indicator shows that I can move pin any I heat the pin with heat gun a little and it will show “0” movement, but you do have to wait for it to cool before removing. Anything with over .0002” run-out is unacceptable in my book. I used a rented live-pilot reamer from Shawnee on the rifle because I didn’t know if this caliber was going to work out or not. I normally buy my reamers from Dave at PPG. I mic all reamers before chambering and this one was good and I used a perfect fitting pilot. Chamber is excellent – absolutely no run out in chamber or on case. Made a floating reamer holder from a picture that Mike Bryant sent me – works great. Barrel is not bedded in front of the recoil lug. The action has aluminum pillars (before bedding) and they are contoured to the same diameter as the action. No stress in other words. I didn’t take any pictures of it before I put it back in the stock but it looks like textbook bedding. After breaking in barrel and fireforming brass (Lapua), brass is neck sized only with .001” squeeze on bullet (Redding Bushing die and Competition Bullet Seater) and I use a Bersin Bullet concentricity tool and/or Sinclair Concentricity Tool. After 15 rounds of naked bullets the barrel cleans up with three patches and when I do use Sweets there is only a trace of copper fowling. After posting my question yesterday I talked to a shooting friend and he thinks that the scope (Leupold) may be malfunctioning. So I clamped the rifle in a vise and put my trusty Leupold bore-sighter on and ran the elevation and windage both ways. It came back to the same zero. I also have the windage and elevation in the middle of its adjustments so the inner tube is not near the outer tube. I took a rifle out of the vise and bounced it on the concrete floor (with the recoil pad down) pretty hard then back to the vise. Zero had not changed. I don’t know if this eliminates the scope. I am going to shoot another group with 50.0 gr. R22 today – if weather permits and then load up some Retumbo (don’t know where to start) and chronograph both. I don’t rule out the possibility that the chronograph is giving false numbers either. I read the thread on the 22-243 AI and “Varmint Hunter” just had to post the picture of that 600 yard group – BUT you still missed the dime. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] That's some fine shooting and if this thing doesn't pan out I will rechamber to 22-243 AI or sell the barrel. I appreciate everyone’s suggestions and questions. I’m trying to give you enough info that maybe you will see something I’m not. I’m not giving up yet! [/QUOTE]
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