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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Necking down and changing shoulder angle?
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<blockquote data-quote="4mesh063" data-source="post: 26729" data-attributes="member: 941"><p><strong>it added about .030" - .050" length to it but left the bulge in the middle of the shoulder more apparent too. </strong></p><p></p><p> Just put a shim under it (or on top). A small washer w/hole drilled would be fine.</p><p></p><p>Yep, I'd have him make bushings!</p><p></p><p><strong>The bore diameter in the 480/475 die is .625" and the shoulder dia is .540" to start with. </strong></p><p></p><p>Nearly identical to mine.</p><p></p><p><strong>If I had him make the first die bushing with a .480" hole and the next with a .440", then the third .400", the bushing I modified would probably take care of the rest alot better than it is right now, not to mention no bulge below the shoulder, ya think? </strong></p><p></p><p>Agree 100%</p><p></p><p>Too Bad on the no AutoCAD</p><p></p><p><strong>I got your pics, they look pretty simple to make or does it just look that way? </strong></p><p></p><p>Very simple for someone who is 1/2 of a machinist. Difficult for me.</p><p></p><p><strong>Is it just a threaded piece with a bore that holds the guide sleeve and it's the top of the die that has the angle and hole the correct size?</strong></p><p></p><p>Exactly. The die has a deadstop. That sleeve you saw + the shellholder depth of .125 + the top die (large piece) dimemsions = My COL + just a few .001's. Then another final form die does the real FL size after all the excess is cut off the neck and shoulder. </p><p></p><p><strong>Is it pretty simple to cut the shoulder angle and bore in the die on a small lathe? </strong></p><p></p><p>The toolholder should have a slide on it that can be angled and that, with a boring bar will put the angle in there. Use a deadstop for position along with an indicator. None of this is critical since it's just a form die. If you're off by a few .000 no problem, just be under, not over. There's a mile of tolerance.</p><p></p><p>You could just hand grind a drill with an angle to match your shoulder like you've already done, then bore the ID of several parts for the decreasing neck dia. This way you can also leave the proper amount of brass to remove inside and out by choosing the appropriate bore size.</p><p></p><p>Good luck.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="4mesh063, post: 26729, member: 941"] [B]it added about .030" - .050" length to it but left the bulge in the middle of the shoulder more apparent too. [/B] Just put a shim under it (or on top). A small washer w/hole drilled would be fine. Yep, I'd have him make bushings! [B]The bore diameter in the 480/475 die is .625" and the shoulder dia is .540" to start with. [/B] Nearly identical to mine. [B]If I had him make the first die bushing with a .480" hole and the next with a .440", then the third .400", the bushing I modified would probably take care of the rest alot better than it is right now, not to mention no bulge below the shoulder, ya think? [/B] Agree 100% Too Bad on the no AutoCAD [B]I got your pics, they look pretty simple to make or does it just look that way? [/B] Very simple for someone who is 1/2 of a machinist. Difficult for me. [B]Is it just a threaded piece with a bore that holds the guide sleeve and it's the top of the die that has the angle and hole the correct size?[/B] Exactly. The die has a deadstop. That sleeve you saw + the shellholder depth of .125 + the top die (large piece) dimemsions = My COL + just a few .001's. Then another final form die does the real FL size after all the excess is cut off the neck and shoulder. [B]Is it pretty simple to cut the shoulder angle and bore in the die on a small lathe? [/B] The toolholder should have a slide on it that can be angled and that, with a boring bar will put the angle in there. Use a deadstop for position along with an indicator. None of this is critical since it's just a form die. If you're off by a few .000 no problem, just be under, not over. There's a mile of tolerance. You could just hand grind a drill with an angle to match your shoulder like you've already done, then bore the ID of several parts for the decreasing neck dia. This way you can also leave the proper amount of brass to remove inside and out by choosing the appropriate bore size. Good luck. [/QUOTE]
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Necking down and changing shoulder angle?
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