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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Necking down and changing shoulder angle?
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<blockquote data-quote="4mesh063" data-source="post: 26727" data-attributes="member: 941"><p>That's what you wanted! </p><p></p><p>If you use just the bushings the way they're supplied, yea, .010 would be a top number for forming. But, if you do what you just did, you can go about exactly 1 mile on each pass and still get results that aren't too bad.</p><p></p><p>If you don't have dies for the gun yet, I'd stop right now. Fire form some of the brass you have, send them out and get the dies made. After that , you can use a combination of the process you've found, and the full length dies to eliminate the great big ring at the top of the body, then you have it licked. AFTER you get them in the gun, you may want to very slightly anneal the neck and shoulder to get a nice form in 1 firing. Don't anneal real far down, in fact, I would do just the neck a take what you get on the shoulder without cooling, it should be enough to get a real nice form. They'll harden back up in 3 or 4 firings and if you have dies made, the brass should almost outlive you. How young are ya?? </p><p></p><p>I'll send a photo of my dies. </p><p></p><p>Glad that worked.</p><p></p><p>I still see radial marks in the photo of the bushing and you can minimize the bulge on the body by making the bushing smoother. It won't push the brass axialy so much. Polish it some, don't worry about the nice sharp angle transitions since you don't want them anyhow. If you can chuck it up in a drill press or hand drill, then sand the inside with 600 paper, you'll be happier with the shape of the finished brass. I have a 3000 rpm Makita 1/2" hand drill that I use instead of doing the sanding in a lathe just because of the speed. It works nice. Look into a Lee 3 jaw chuck ASAP since that is a real nice alternative to buying a lathe and it's 15 bucks from Natchez. All that hand sanding crap can be done with it in a hand drill and you'll like turning necks with it as well. In a slower drill of course (I have a 500rpm Makita 1/2" drill for that that works great) </p><p></p><p>Well, the cases look like they'll work. I like the long neck. Good idea.</p><p></p><p>[ 05-09-2003: Message edited by: 4mesh063 ]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="4mesh063, post: 26727, member: 941"] That's what you wanted! If you use just the bushings the way they're supplied, yea, .010 would be a top number for forming. But, if you do what you just did, you can go about exactly 1 mile on each pass and still get results that aren't too bad. If you don't have dies for the gun yet, I'd stop right now. Fire form some of the brass you have, send them out and get the dies made. After that , you can use a combination of the process you've found, and the full length dies to eliminate the great big ring at the top of the body, then you have it licked. AFTER you get them in the gun, you may want to very slightly anneal the neck and shoulder to get a nice form in 1 firing. Don't anneal real far down, in fact, I would do just the neck a take what you get on the shoulder without cooling, it should be enough to get a real nice form. They'll harden back up in 3 or 4 firings and if you have dies made, the brass should almost outlive you. How young are ya?? I'll send a photo of my dies. Glad that worked. I still see radial marks in the photo of the bushing and you can minimize the bulge on the body by making the bushing smoother. It won't push the brass axialy so much. Polish it some, don't worry about the nice sharp angle transitions since you don't want them anyhow. If you can chuck it up in a drill press or hand drill, then sand the inside with 600 paper, you'll be happier with the shape of the finished brass. I have a 3000 rpm Makita 1/2" hand drill that I use instead of doing the sanding in a lathe just because of the speed. It works nice. Look into a Lee 3 jaw chuck ASAP since that is a real nice alternative to buying a lathe and it's 15 bucks from Natchez. All that hand sanding crap can be done with it in a hand drill and you'll like turning necks with it as well. In a slower drill of course (I have a 500rpm Makita 1/2" drill for that that works great) Well, the cases look like they'll work. I like the long neck. Good idea. [ 05-09-2003: Message edited by: 4mesh063 ] [/QUOTE]
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Necking down and changing shoulder angle?
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