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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Neck turning question?
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<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 1027254" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>My opinion is that you should pre size the inside of the neck first, then turn the necks all the same, then trim if it is necessary, and then size to load. It is the best way I know to form the brass concentric with the chamber.</p><p></p><p>If you use the sizing pilot first, it will true the neck only, but you will get a very precise wall thickness on the neck. but to true the case with the chamber it will have to be fired one more time</p><p>if it has been fired with differences in neck thickness.</p><p>(Your brass and chamber may be true but the inside of the case is not unless the neck wall is exactly the same all the way around (If it is you don't need to do anything except turn them to the same thickness) and if the necks wall is different, the different thicknesses move the bullet off center buy the difference in thickness.</p><p></p><p>That's why I like to size the inside of the neck with the sizing pilot, turn the OD of the neck(Using the correct fitting pilot) so at least when its fired the first time it does not move the inside of the neck off center. </p><p></p><p>I have also found that when sizing down a case/neck for a wildcat, I follow the same procedure</p><p>while the case/neck is the original size.</p><p></p><p>I use the 375 RUM for my 30 Texan and my 338 Texan and I turn them while they are still .375</p><p>so the first firing will center everything up perfectly. (When they are set up this way it is not unusual for accuracy to be less than 1/2 moa during fire forming.</p><p></p><p>This all sounds like a lot of trouble, and it is not necessary if someone is looking for 1 Minute of deer accuracy.</p><p>I MOA is easy, 1/2 MOA is hard, 1/4 MOA takes a lot more effort than 1/2 MOA and 1/10th MOA requires that we pull out all the stops and leave no stone unturned.</p><p></p><p>I hope that explained it well enough to understand.</p><p></p><p>Just the way I like to prepare brass for accuracy loading.</p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 1027254, member: 2736"] My opinion is that you should pre size the inside of the neck first, then turn the necks all the same, then trim if it is necessary, and then size to load. It is the best way I know to form the brass concentric with the chamber. If you use the sizing pilot first, it will true the neck only, but you will get a very precise wall thickness on the neck. but to true the case with the chamber it will have to be fired one more time if it has been fired with differences in neck thickness. (Your brass and chamber may be true but the inside of the case is not unless the neck wall is exactly the same all the way around (If it is you don't need to do anything except turn them to the same thickness) and if the necks wall is different, the different thicknesses move the bullet off center buy the difference in thickness. That's why I like to size the inside of the neck with the sizing pilot, turn the OD of the neck(Using the correct fitting pilot) so at least when its fired the first time it does not move the inside of the neck off center. I have also found that when sizing down a case/neck for a wildcat, I follow the same procedure while the case/neck is the original size. I use the 375 RUM for my 30 Texan and my 338 Texan and I turn them while they are still .375 so the first firing will center everything up perfectly. (When they are set up this way it is not unusual for accuracy to be less than 1/2 moa during fire forming. This all sounds like a lot of trouble, and it is not necessary if someone is looking for 1 Minute of deer accuracy. I MOA is easy, 1/2 MOA is hard, 1/4 MOA takes a lot more effort than 1/2 MOA and 1/10th MOA requires that we pull out all the stops and leave no stone unturned. I hope that explained it well enough to understand. Just the way I like to prepare brass for accuracy loading. J E CUSTOM [/QUOTE]
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Neck turning question?
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